SAMUEL NEAL

And tigers to be guardians of sheep and lambs." Manuel Micheltoreno was forced to agree to get rid of his army, but he was powerless to carry out the promise, lacking the authority of his home government. 3o open hostilities developed into the well-known Micheltoreno War.

In this affair General Sutter took the side of Micheltoreno, although at a price. He was to be paid expenses and an additional grant of land besides that already bestowed upon him by Governor Alvarado. He was also to receive documents authorizing him to grant ands to settlers in the Sacramento Valley. Despite the advice of Vallejo, he marched with two hundred men to the aid of his friend the governor, and among these men were Samuel Neal and John Bidwell. In December Micheltoreno gave to Neal the grant for the beautiful Rancho Esquon, in compliance with Sutter's recommendation, and in consideration of Sam Neal's services as blacksmith and maintenance man for the troops. Sam had of necessity become a naturalized Californian in November before receiving the grant, as hat was a requirement.

The little army assembled by Sutter, consisted of a hundred rifle of varied nationality, a few artillerymen, and about a hundred Indians, accomplished in the use of either bow and arrow or gun. The little company set out on January 1, 1845, for the south. There were many Americans on both sides of this dispute and many friends lined up against one another in the mock affray in Cahuenga Pass, and care was taken that no one should be hurt. Micheltoreno, finding himself at the mercy of circumstances, and believing himself deserted :)y the Americans, whom he had befriended and enriched, was obliged :o capitulate. The Americans were very reluctant to participate in the Mexican affray, and Micheltoreno, sad and disappointed, was then . . "forced to resign his office and leave California, taking his troublesome troops with him. John Bidwell and General Sutter considered the fiasco a disgraceful betrayal of friendship and no doubt Sam, the loyal employee of Sutter, shared the same opinion.

Upon the return of Sutter's troops to Sacramento, Samuel Neal purchased from the General a drove of carefully selected stock and headed them north to establish himself upon his new domain. [11] To the circumstance of his service to Sutter and to kindly Micheltoreno he owed this magnificent gift of land. The grant of 22,193.78 acres ay along Butte Creek and included the Lott Ranch, north of the present Chico - Oroville highway in Butte County. It extended east of Durham to and including the foothills. Much of the land later became the property of Stanford University.

The land was ideal for the establishment of a stock farm, com on a smaller scale to that of General Sutter, which fulfilled Samuel Neal's ambition. The soil was sandy, deep and rich along Butte Creek, suitable for garden or grain. Huge black oaks grew in Sense groves where the loam was deep from years of overflow and silt deposit, enriched by leaf mold and natural cover crops of luxurious feed. As the grant extended toward the foothills, the soil became more shallow and the hardpan of lava rock lay near and often came through the surface. Here in the spring the low, rolling hills, barren of trees, were always covered with wild flowers, and a veritable Persian carpet of blue, green, orange, and gold stretched toward the higher pine covered hills as far as the eye could see. Scrubby oaks and tanzanite relieved the nakedness of the foothills, making a darker green patch here and there. Outcropping lava in long ledges near the tops of the hills where the grass turned yellow in summer - remained dark and bare, like blackberry juice oozing out from under the golden crust of a pie. The shallow canyons flattened to the valley and grew deeper as they led the way to the higher mountains beyond to the east: [12]

Over these hills roamed wild cattle and equally wild Indians who were already established in camps on the Rancho Esquon. They were part of the great Maidu Nation, probably either the Eskin of the Butte Creek tribe or part of the Konkau, who lived further up in Concow Valley and were a large and powerful band. Those on the Esquon Grant soon became known as the Sam Neal Indians however. Sam made good use of them, as they built fences of logs and brush for his stock corrals, built adobe houses, fashioned vehicles, rode herd on the stock all for the consideration of being well fed and mounted and the gift of a few inexpensive articles.

Sam had learned from Fremont the knack of dealing with Indians, and he paid them with brightly colored calicoes and trinkets, buttons, pins, in fact anything unfamiliar to them. They wore no clothing whatever and went about as naked as the day they were born.

So it came about that in the spring of 1845, Samuel Neal came to Butte County, driving his herd of cattle and horses before him. He had thus invested his earnings [13] while in the employ of Lieutenant Fremont, and the kindly General Sutter had helped him select nothing but the best for his start on the new domain.

With Sam came one David Dutton. [14] Just what the agreement was between these two men, I do not know, but evidently Dutton was to receive an interest in some of the grant for the consideration of help with the management of it, or perhaps he purchased an interest in a parcel of it. There is evidence that by some partnership arrangement with Sam, he came into possession of a half interest in a portion of the grant lying along the south side of Butte Creek, together with a half interest in the stock and farm equipment thereon.

Sam set about establishing headquarters and fences for his stock, and with the help of the Indians he cleared some of the most suitable of the land for the growing of a small amount of wheat and grain. In those days Butte Creek ran through a shallow channel approximately a thousand feet west of where the bridge on the Durham - Oroville Highway crosses it today. Sycamore trees and a slight dip in the road and adjacent field, still mark the course of the old creek bed.

To the south of the present road and near the Stanford Ranch headquarters, stood the first headquarters of the Neal Ranch. Sam built a hotel there and it was one of the main stopping places on the stage line running from Marysville to Redding a few years later. My grandparents, Allyn and Sarah Barnard ran it for a time when they were first married in the early fifties, as by that time Sam had established his residence at the old adobe building to the north and on the other side of the creek. Grandfather drove one of the fine Concord stages over the route, making his headquarters at this hotel at "Neals" or "Neills" as the name appears on some of the older maps.

A short distance above the present bridge and where the previous channel left the present one, there was a bridge across Butte Creek which Samuel Neal and his Indians built of hand-hewn oak. It was a sturdy, crude affair but it served the purpose and was especially useful for stages when the stream was high. All traces of it were demolished and washed away with the building of the levees.

Samuel was not given to luxuries or to a life of refinement or ease. He cared not for the white shirts, stocks, scarves, black coats or silk hats worn by Bidwell, Kit Carson or Fremont on dress occasions. First and last he was a frontiersman, a stockman, a blacksmith. With the help of his Indians he built for himself a house of adobe. The material had only to be brought from a short distance to the south, a portion of his own ranch. The house had an adobe floor, and a few holes were left in the sides for ventilation and light, which later became windows. The old adobe stood almost on the site of the little house on the Durham Ranch that is to the north of the road and a short distance west from the old creek channel. [15] I lived there for three months, as a bride in the year 1906. There was a well and a pump at the little old house and the well was used by Sam. [16] Around the house were the same big black oaks that had sheltered the adobe. There were also figs and black walnut trees that Sam had planted. Under one of the big oaks, at a slight bend in the road where a gate now leads to the little house, Sam built a big blacksmith shop, which was also of adobe.

At this shop he fashioned tools and equipment for the ranch. There were hammers, tongs and pincers, all sorts of crude implements made by hand. Well do I remember these tools, which were treasured by the Durham family as relics of Neal's, some having come with Fremont's Expedition. There at the old shop he shod his horses and often those of the passing stages, or made necessary repairs when the occasion demanded emergency assistance; even as he had done when he first met Lieutenant Fremont. Between the house, the shop and the creek, were numerous corrals and a few crude shelters for stock, the fine mares, and a magnificent stallion, brought from Sutter's largest and strongest horses. [17]

It was here that Fremont found Sam in the last of March 1846, when Fremont was on his way north to Oregon. What a joyous meeting it must have been, for with the party were Kit Carson, Basil Lajeunesse, Godey, and others who had been with Sam when they had crossed the Sierra summit with the Lieutenant two years before. Fremont was now a Captain and was on his third expedition to the West.

They talked of old times and friends, and of the exciting experiences the party had just passed through near Salinas Valley. Sam learned of their trip across the Donner Pass and down to Monterey where they had secured permission from Jose Castro to do some scientific explorations in the territory. They had been accorded a measure of courtesy for a time, but Castro had suddenly ordered them to leave California at once, and the Captain had been compelled to protect himself and his men by erecting a temporary fort on Gavilan Peak, east of Salinas. There they resisted the attack of drunken Indians, incited to join Castro's forces for the purpose of driving the Americans from the territory.

These were the uncertain days when Mexico and the United States were entering into a territorial dispute that led to actual war, and the Americans then coming into the territory were looked upon with suspicion and hostility by the Californians. The Captain had withdrawn his men from their position on Gavilan and was on his way north. He planned to complete the maps of the Klamath country, made only in part on the previous expedition when the party had come down the east side of the Cascades and Sierras missing the lake, but he was in no hurry to leave California.

Samuel Neal had already attained wealth, having land beyond vision, which had cost him nothing more than a few weeks of service to Sutter and Micheltoreno; he had herds of cattle both wild and domestic and some fields of grain. Better still he had some very fine horses that were his pride and joy.

When the Fremont party arrived, the Captain was still riding his magnificent mount "Sacramento" given him by General Sutter two years before. Sam had horses now of equally fine breeding. The men must look over his stock and part of his land, and meantime he had a feast prepared for them consisting mostly of roast young beef, beans and bread. He had a young cow killed for the party to take with them on their way and even furnished them with some unusual entertainment. The naked Indians ran foot races for the head and officials of the cow, which were considered a rare prize. Then with many heartwarming handshakes, backslaps and expressed good wishes, the party took off, little dreaming how soon they would meet again. [18]

Captain Fremont continued leisurely on his way, remaining several days at the ranch of Peter Lassen on Deer Creek where he arrived on April 11, 1846. He mapped the Deer Creek and Pit River area with the guidance of pioneer Peter and then proceeded to cross a pass between the Sierra and the Cascades and on to Klamath. [19] He crossed the outlet at the south end and went up the west side of the lake to camp above the northern end.

The Captain was anxious to explore and map the entire region even to the coast during the summer months, but his country had other plans for him. Lieutenant Archibald Gillespie of the United States Marine Corps had been commissioned to bring important messages to the Captain and to Commodore Sloat regarding the Mexican situation. He had taken the quickest possible route, through Mexico to Mazatlan and up to Monterey on the U. S. sloop of war, "Cyane," where he contacted the United States Consul General Larkin. Gillespie was under orders from the President and the Secretary of the Navy to find these men wherever they might be. Larkin directed him worth, up the Sacramento.

Most of the messages Gillespie carried were memorized, and he was allowed to proceed, as he bore only letters of introduction and personal notes to Fremont and his men from their family and friends. When he reached Sutter's Fort, the General directed him on north, advising him to call upon Samuel Neal for assistance. The General's loyalty to Mexico is well demonstrated by the fact that he also dispatched a messenger to Monterey telling them that Lieutenant Gilespie was undoubtedly an emissary of the United States Government, bearing secret messages. Although Neal had become a native California also, his loyalty was all for his native country and for his Captain.

When Gillespie arrived at the Rancho Esquon, Sam shod some of his finest stock, and being made aware of the importance of the lieutenant's orders, he set out to accompany him along with the three other men in his party on the perilous trip north. There were but five n the little group including himself, and Neal well knew the dangers confronting them, as the Indians in the north were treacherous and hostile. When the Upper Sacramento was reached, he left Gillespie o follow their trail more slowly, and with Sigler, who had been a member of the Second Expedition, the two rode on alone to find the Captain and return with help to the Lieutenant.

There are several accounts of this wild ride of Samuel Neal's, one relates that he rode alone, was attacked by Indians, and only escaped by shooting to right and left and by the fleetness and strength of his fine horse. Captain Fremont's account, however, tells of his hearing the slow, weary approach of two horsemen on the night of May 8, at his camp on the north end of "Tlamath" Lake. [20] He tells of the extreme fatigue of these men and their mounts, and of the urgency of returning to the aid of Gillespie. He also recorded the fact that Neal had ridden over two hundred miles in the last two days, had discovered Indians on Fremont's trail who had tried to cut them off and that only the endurance of their mounts had saved them.

"Neal said that in his opinion I could not reach Gillespie in time to save him as he had only three men and was traveling slow." wrote the Captain in his notes.

Early the following morning accompanied by part of his group of sixty sharpshooters, and with Neal, Sigler, and Kit Carson, he set out and rode about sixty miles down the east side of the lake, where they were met at sunset by Gillespie. It was a joyous meeting for all concerned. The little party of three were weary after their hasty ride of over six hundred miles in pursuit of the Captain but fortunately Peter Lassen, knowing the dangers and treachery of the natives of the territory, had volunteered to guide them to the Klamath country. No doubt his assistance was largely responsible for their safe arrival.

The party camped that night in as safe a place as they could and in spite of weariness talked long of the conflict with Mexico and the determination of the President to acquire as peacefully as possible the beautiful territory of California. The happiness at receiving letters from home and news of friends after a year's absence was greatly saddened, however, by the tragedy of the following morning. Fremont kept guard until very late. His suspicions were once aroused by the restlessness of the horses and mules, but he finally went to sleep. It seems to have been the one night when an all night guard was not maintained, probably because they considered their number a sufficient warning,

After the moon had gone down, in the early morning hours of pitch darkness, the blow fell. The treacherous "Tlamath," after having allowed Gillespie to pass unharmed the day before, even furnishing him with a salmon, now fell upon the camp and before the men were aroused, the Indian chief had bashed in the head of Basil Lajeunesse with his hatchet. Two of Fremont's faithful Delaware Indians were also killed in the attack before Carson and the other members of the party had managed to dispose of the chief and a few of his murderous assistants. Basil was greatly beloved by his Captain. His sense of humor, fearlessness and affection had cheered and comforted his companions on many occasions and endeared him to all. He had accompanied Fremont on the entire First Expedition and as far as Fort Hall on the Second. Here so far from home and family he gave his life in the service of his country as nobly as any soldier who ever fell in battle on this Third Expedition.

The next few days the company wreaked vengeance on the Klamaths whenever opportunity permitted. Their rifles had a longer range than did bows and arrows, and the sharpshooters were not adverse to avenging the loss of their loved companion.

It is of interest to note Kit Carson's description of the weapons of these Indians. He says they were beautifully fashioned, the hatchets and the arrowheads, made of metal furnished to the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company. The arrows were poisoned. The poisoning was accomplished by holding a piece of liver in front of a pinioned rattlesnake and aggravating him into striking the bloody meat time and again until it was thoroughly permeated with the poison from its fangs. Then the arrows were stuck into the liver until covered with the contaminated blood. Only such vicious savages as these Indians, renowned for their atrocious cruelties, could conceive of producing suffering and death in such a horrible manner.

The return trip was made with more leisure. Sam and Sigler had ridden a hundred miles on the last day of their important journey, demonstrating the stamina of men and the endurance of their superb mounts. In this regard, Captain Fremont's famous iron gray, "Sacramento," and the quick witted Captain himself, are credited by Kit Carson with saving his life on the homeward journey. It seems that a crouching Indian had drawn his bow and arrow on Carson, and the latter, unaware of his danger, would surely have been killed. Carson's gun failed to go off but the Captain in a flash rode the Indian down before he could let fly his arrow. Carson said, "I owe my life to them two the Colonel and Sacramento saved me." [21] After a few minor skirmishes with war parties, the company reached Lassen's.

The secret messages delivered by Gillespie ordered Fremont back into California, where he was instructed to stand by and render assistance in taking over the territory by peaceful means, when he was afforded the opportunity. The history of events leading up to the Bear Flag Rebellion are well enough known to omit in this story. However, the part taken by Samuel Neal in rendering service to his Captain and country should be mentioned.

Sam returned with Fremont and Gillespie to Lassen's. The rest of the company were following and camped some fifteen miles to the north. The Captain wrote a letter to Senator Benton, his father in expressing his intention of returning home by way of the Colorado River. Gillespie also wrote one to General Larkin at Monterey, confirming this plan. In view of the instructions carried to Fremont with such urgency, Bancroft [22] considers these letters a hoax, intended to mislead the Californians. The letters were entrusted to Sam Neal for delivery, and according to Bancroft they were written at Lassen's on May 24, and Sam arrived in Sacramento the following day, a ride of considerably over a hundred miles, thus again demonstrating the fortitude of this hardy pioneer. He would have changed mounts at his ranch on the way, depending on his partner, Dutton, to look after the grant during his absence. He is reported to have been stopped below Sacramento by the high water, but to have started again on the 27th by way of Sonoma.

Meanwhile Fremont stayed at Lassen's two days and the following day camped at Rancho Esquon on Butte Creek. From there he moved on down to the Marysville Buttes, where he set up headquarters on the southeast side of the Buttes near a stream. General Castro had issued a manifesto on April 30, warning all Americans that any lands they had or might acquire were subject to seizure by Mexico. Sam returned on the 4th of June from the long ride to Monterey and he brought a warning too that Indians up and down the valley had been incited to make war against them and to burn their fields of grain. The Indians had already withdrawn into the hills, where they were donning war paint and feathers. The camp of Fremont at the foot of the Buttes became a refuge for fearful settlers and a headquarters for consultation and preparedness.

Samuel J. Hensley returned from the Bay with more information regarding the terms of Castro's junta and preparations of a military nature being made by him at Santa Clara. He also brought the alarming news that an appeal had been made by the Mexicans to England for help. England was on the ground with warships in Monterey Harbor and alert Britishers were scattered throughout the settlements.

Fremont was a Captain of a Topographical Corps. His position at this time was a rather delicate one, inasmuch as he had no written authorization to enter a war against Mexico. His instructions were that he should " . . watch and counteract any foreign scheme on California and conciliate the good will of the inhabitants toward the United States." [23] According to other records the Captain was given private instructions before leaving Washington to the effect that California should belong to the United States and " . . . to foil England by carrying the war, now imminent with Mexico, into the territory of California." [24]

On the 6th of June he sent Hensley and Samuel Neal to Sacramento with a summons to be broadcast to all settlers, calling upon them to congregate for consultation, and to plan provision for their common safety. He moved to the Feather, then to Bear River, and finally to his old headquarters near Sutter's on the American. [25]

Castro with headquarters at Santa Clara was busy organizing his forces and secured from General Vallejo at Sonoma about two hundred horses to be used for his troops. A party of about a dozen men was engaged in driving them from Sonoma around through the valley. They swam the horses across the Sacramento at Knights Landing and Knight made all haste to inform Fremont of the fact. The Captain sent out about a dozen of the settlers to head off this drove of stock, and among these men again rode Sam Neal.

There was much criticism and conjecture regarding this occurrence, but in view of the fact that Arce, who was taking the animals to Castro, had told the Knights they were to be used to drive the settlers from California and that a fort would be established preventing any more of them from coming in over the Bear River pass, the seizure of the horses seems quite justifiable under the circumstances and considering the instructions given to Fremont.

Ezekial Merritt commanded the pursuing party and some others were Granville Swift and Henry L. Ford and others of like character. Most of the reports say that the party was not composed of Fremont's own company, but he is considered responsible for the raid and was bitterly criticized as a consequence. Castro's men were allowed to proceed with their own mounts, and even with their own firearms.

Fremont was in the difficult position of helping the settlers to acquire safety and independence, without taking an active part in the war with Mexico at this time. Thus, although it was William B. Ide who led the company to Sonoma, it is Fremont who is also credited with the idea behind the Bear Flag Rebellion. Sam Neal's name is included in the list of the actual members of the party who took part in the capture of Sonoma and the planting of the notable Bear Flag of California thereon; he is listed as one of the thirteen members from Sacramento Valley. [26]

With the arrest of Vallejo, who was a fine person, friendly to the Americans, though like Sutter bound by loyalty to the Mexican Government, the conquest of the north was really completed with a minimum of conflict. Fremont did not assume credit or responsibility for what had been done. He declared that Vallejo was a prisoner of the people, who had been driven to revolt for self-protection. Had Fremont been present, there is no doubt but that the capture of Sonoma would have had a more dignified conclusion. As it was, the hospitality of Vallejo and a barrel of aguardiente seem to have caused a rather boisterous demonstration, not altogether complimentary to the Americans.

By July 10 Captain Fremont rejoiced to hear that Commodore Stoat had raised the American flag over the Custom House at Monterey; Commander John B. Montgomery had likewise planted the national emblem in San Francisco's Union Square and had sent a flag for the fort at Sonoma. John Fremont hoisted one over Sutter's Fort at Sacramento on July 11 amid the cheers of the people and a salute of twenty one guns. There is no doubt but that Samuel was there, waving his hat and shouting with the rest; he is given recognition as having taken a very active part in Fremont's campaign.

With the subsequent departure of the Captain and his company for Monterey, we presume that Sam returned to his domain in Butte County and the pursuit of his stock raising. The early diaries of the emigrants report six ranches or stopping places between "Lawson's" and Sacramento. These were: Potter's, which was near Chico; Neal's, or Neil's as it more often was spelled, on "Butler" or Butte Creek; Charlie Burch's near Feather River; Nye's near the mouth of the Yuba where Marysville now stands; and Nichols' on Feather River at Nico or Nicolaus, as we now know it.

The first settlement on Rancho Esquon was on the east side of the creek as I have told you and it so appears on the older maps, and the ranch was one of the principal landmarks of Northern California. There were many Indian villages scattered over it and the whole country then abounded in wild game. Elk, deer, and antelope furnished a respite from the monotony of a beef diet. Grizzlies were very plentiful; they hid in the slight depressions of the open plains and were dangerous and vicious as well as a constant menace to small stock. [27]

During the early years of ranching, Sam's revenue was principally derived from the sale of the wild cattle. They were rounded up by Indian vaqueros and killed mostly for the tallow and hides. This merchandise was hauled in huge carts to the Sacramento River a distance of considerably over ten miles where boats took the freight to Sacramento or to Benicia for sale or trade. The ox carts were built after the Mexican pattern: wheels were cut from a cross section of a large oak and hewn down to as perfect a circle as possible.

This massive wheel of solid oak was thicker in the middle than at the outer edge or rim, which was of necessity minus the protection of a tire. There was no supply of metal for the purpose. A basket like body of poles - held hides, tallow and freight and was perched atop a heavy axle, usually made from the round trunk of a small tree. Oxen, broken to bear a heavy yoke, furnished the motive power. Although the axles were well greased with soap, it was said that one could hear the loud squeaking of the wheels for a mile. Sam rode beside the carts to supervise the shipments and to weigh out his merchandise. He also bought goods in exchange which were used, sold, or traded at his ranch. [28]

In addition to the raising of cattle, Sam devoted much of his energy to the breeding and raising of fine horses. Neal's horses were known up and down the valley for their excellence and many were purchased from him for breeding purposes. He also built up a fine strain of tame cattle and is reputed to be the first man in the north to produce beef cattle. He raised sheep also, pasturing them on the shallow lands of the hills in the spring and moving them to the higher elevations to browse in the summer. For the convenience of moving his stock to the mountains he built a road from the ranch up through an adjacent canyon toward Paradise. This road is still known as the Neal Grade and is still in use. It was necessarily used to send carts and supplies with the herds for the men who guarded them during the summer months.

Although food was scarce and high in the Forties, hospitality was of necessity the established custom. The staple articles such as coffee, flour, tea, or beans had to be brought by long trek up the valleys from the source of supply at San Francisco. There were very few wagons, no harness, no roads, only ox carts and boats on the river. Meals were very simple. Meat was cut in strips and dried by both Indians and white men. The Indians pounded some of theirs to a fine powder along with their staple food, the acorn. The continuous pounding by one or more Indian squaws was almost always audible in the vicinity of an Indian camp, as the lowly acorn was reduced to a fine meal.

A traveler was welcome to stay all night at the Neal Ranch, to be fed and given dried meat for the next day's travel. This was the custom in California among the missions to the south and at the Spanish haciendas. As there were no such accommodations in the north, those enjoying the benefit of the large Mexican grants were gracious to the stranger deserving of hospitality. When the discovery of gold brought in the horde of Argonauts however, food became very scarce and expensive and the open door and open larder became a thing of the past. One hungry immigrant of '49 complains of being charged forty cents at the Neal Ranch for two biscuits. Another story is told of how on a rainy evening a man rode into the yard and asked if this was the Neal Rancho. Sam replied that it was.

"I would like to stay all night." said the stranger.

"No transients." replied Sam, the man of few words.

"How far is it to the next ranch?" inquired the traveler.

"Six miles to Bidwell's, he keeps travelers." was Neal's curt reply.

The two men eyed one another for a moment, and then the stranger said,

"My horse is jaded and I'm soaked through, I'm going to stop with you."

"All right." said Neal without a change of expression, and turning to an Indian servant he gave an order that the horse should have a good feed and barley and that the cook should prepare a good meal for the man. A warm room in the spacious adobe was also provided for the stranger. In the morning when the guest asked for his bill, Sam, with a twinkle in his eye, replied,

"You owe me nothing at all, stop in when you come by again." for he had found a man like himself who was not afraid and who had consideration for his horse.

Whenever an ox or horse went lame on the road from Marysville or Oroville to Chico, the driver knew that he could get a fresh animal

it and scare him a little perhaps he would pay if for he is able for I need it now to get me medicine we had a letter from Grandmother some time ago had bin very poorly all sumer but was little better at the time she wrote wee have not heard from John for along time it seemes that he has forgoten or dontt care to hear from eny of us.

Well Willie this letter was commenced in September and this is October Since then my health has grone much worse I am not able to sit up Near half my time and from my present feelings I may be gone before this letter reaches its place of destinasion but let that be as it will I want you to write as soon as you get this and if I am ded some of the rest will answer it I would like so well to hear from you and George is he liveing how strange it is that George quit writing to eny of us he little thought how grate a satisfaction it would have bin to me menney time to have got a letter from him.

Well Willie as this may be the last letter f shall ever have the privelidge of writing to you I want to tell (you) to always and in all places and in all sircumstances you may bee plased to remember that wee must all die let us live to be old or die young the time will come and if wee are not prepared it will be Awful I want you there fore to make the preparasion that is Needful so that when Death shall come it will have No terror to you use to tell me when you was a little boy when you got to be a man that you would be a preacher but if you would only be a religious man I should be very glad I want you to have those simple words of warning in mind I shall have to bring my letter to a close by ernsly asking you once more to write soon My love to George and your self I am as ever your

Affectionate Mother Rosanna Durham

The style of writing in the letters of Rosanna Durham is not peculiar to her ideas. Among the papers left by Father William Durham in the old safe is another very interesting letter from one of his boyhood friends. It is possible that those few from his mother and the other one from his friend. D. W. Waymire, were the only messages of any consequence that he received during his first eight years in California. They are the only ones that he kept anyway. Although the Waymire letter is not a part of the history of the Durham Ranch, it too is historically interesting as it gives an accurate picture of the conditions prevailing in Ohio during the Civil War days and is therefore worthy of preservation.

Home     May 7th, 1863

Dear Friend and Schoolmate

A Thousand thanks for the few lines which have just reached me, from one that I have often wondered what had become of him, indeed it caused some solem feelings to pass through me once we were schoolmats and near friends, and nearly constant together but now seperation has taken place and it may be that we will never be permitted to see ach other again but again how thankful we should be to know that bothe can write and by this means be permited to hear, from each other, how I long to see you to pass a few happy hours together.

Billy my mind is wandering to much for a good letter, ten Thousand things come before me at once to write about. in the first place I would state that we are ail well at present what their is living. no doubt but what you have heard of what afflictions we have had to pass through, since last I saw you, Hamiltons being killed and the Death of my Mother. the news no doubt have reached you long before this time, therefore I shall not dwell on this subject but will pass.

My wedding I do not know whether you have heard it or not. I am Married at least and to one that you would not have thought of, nor I, at that time, I could relate to you what caused me to go with her, but I shall not, her name was Amanda Miller one of your schoolmates, but when I first began to go little did I dream of Marrying but I do not think that I shall ever regret the time when I asked her to become my wife. it was through others that I went with her, they haveing a spite at me, I took revenge by going, nothing could have made them mader than for me to pay my respects to her so on the 26th Day of February 1863 we were married. We should not have been Married so soon if Mother had not have died. their is plenty of girls here in this section of county who are becoming very much disheartened, at the Sad prospects of their future destiny. For the War is still rageing with unbounded fury in this our once happy and prosperous country. You know not nor cannot imagine the feelings that are existing here, School mates and comrades are falling in the field of Battle whilst others are languishing on beds of Sickness away from their homes, some are Dying and but few are permitted to ever return. I could give you some of the most brutal and barbarian treatments to which our poor soldiers have to undergo I shall relate only one of the many, that was one of our comrades, Auston Macy he and some more went out scouting and getting separated from his comrades he came across a party of Secesh dismounting he hid himself in the bushes and commenced firing on them until he killed some seven of them when they finding out his hiding place, marched towards him when he Mounted and attempted to retreat when his horse fell and hurt him when they carne up, he heeled up his hand in token of a surrender but all was to no purpose they fired on him piercing him with several balls but not killing him instantly he mustered up what little strength he had and fired killing his 8th man, they then Bayoneted and throw him in a mud hole and left him, our men soon found him and buried him as decent as they could he was brought back a Week or two ago and buried, a braver soldier never died of Battle, others have met the same fate. some are still alive that went from here.

Harrison Sinks, John Sings and Austin Waymire are still living some are in Virginia Some in Tennessee and some in Kentucky but their is no telling how soon we may hear of them meeting the same fate Some have proved themselves cowards and have Skeddadled. . . . . was one of that number he pretended to be extremely bold until he left Ohio then he began to think of the Girls that was left he came to the conclusion that they must not suffer, and returned, but they would not listen to his kind enreatys but called him a question. So you may know the Sympathy the Ladies have for them kind of soldiers.

their was several Thousand in Ohio but recently orders for them to return were issued immidiately if not they were to meet a deserters fate, but a great many have not heeded it, and are still here.

There is a great many Sympathisers here, in the North, and it is getting worse every day, only a few days ago they arrested one of the leaders . . . . . of Dayton, (no doubt but what you know him) and took him to Cin for to be tried which has caused high times, here among his democratic friends, (properly speaking Copperheads) Just after they took him there was a Mob raised in which several were killed, and burning the Journal Office and in fact about one Block exceping the Phillips House Several have been arrested, and a great many names taken down that is to be arrested yet such is the State of Ohio now in these parts, everything looks billious.

their is no telling how soon this war will close, I think that ail will have to go here yet, before it closes for sometime in June the Draft takes place again, this time it will take nearly all, God knows that the men are getting scarce enough now, but Wages are not quite so high as what they are where you are, but they are advancing some They are ranging on a Farm from 12 to 20.00 per Month and that is more than a person can afford to pay, the prices of produce are as follows Wheat 1.20 and 1.25 per Bushel Corn 60 cts Oats 50 cts Barley 1.25 Flak Seed 2.25 and other grain at the same rate Butter per lb 2530 Eggs Dozen 810 cts. Pork on foot 3 and 4 cts. Lard 8 cts.

Such is about the prices here of things. Government money I do not know what it is worth at this time but Gold is worth commanding about 60 cts Premium and none to be had Silver we see none no change but what we call Shin Plasters small Government bills if I am not very much mistaken hard times have only just set in. We have had a very beautiful spring thus far the woods are beginning to look green Apple trees are out in full bloom and in fact are beginning to fall off some, if nothing happens the fruit their will oe plenty of Peaches as well as other fruit last season we were blest with Peaches I have got some of my corn planted and would have been planting today but it is raining and a cold rain too the Neighbors have to throw to;ether in planting their corn as well as doing their other.

Billy if you could be back here and see what a change has been made in and about Old Polk your eyes would not hardly believe, where once a person could hardly turn their eyes but what you would see one two or three Decks of cards going now not enough can be scared up to have a game, and when you go into church you will see the Women's side full and the mens about half Such is the state in which we are placed in at this present time, when you go out to Church or at any gathering the conversation is altogether upon the condition of our country. War, War what a curse it is to our Nation, the Boys around here are all well as far as I know . . . . .

Billy I do not want you to neglect answering this poor specimen of a letter for nothing does me so much good as to hear from old comrades. there is no telling how often my mind has wandered after you if my circumstances would have been a little different I should have still been your companion how often I have wished that I had a went with you, but now I would not leave my native country in its most trying hours. let come what will I am determined to maintain and give my support in the defence of that glorious old Flag, which our Forefathers bought with their own precious blood, in '76.

but I will soon close by asking you for an answer, so soon as you receive this. I could 811 another sheet, but I expect that you will get tired of reading what I have already written therefore I will close for the present, by tendering to you my best wishes, hopeing that you will excuse all mistakes for it was written in a hurry the Letter will show for itsseif. Amanda sends her respects and best wishes to you, we would all be glad to see you once more, but I will close for the paper is about all, I still remain as ever your sincere friend.              Farewell

W. Durham           D. W. Waymire.

CHAPTER II

Out in California Robert Durham and Charles Lott had settled the estate of Samuel Neal and had given final accounting to his brothers, Charles and Spencer Neal. Samuel had made special bequests in his will to his sisters and brothers or their heirs and also to these two friends. After all of these designated gifts were taken care of the residue of the estate was to go to the sisters and brothers also. Judge Lott was given Five Thousand Dollars and Robert Durham was to receive the home ranch of 240 acres. With his cash bequest the Judge purchased from the estate a 900-acre tract on the north side of the road running from Durham to Oroville. In 1872 he rented it to Ed Branns' [39] father, who until then resided in the southern part of the county.

In the interest of the brothers and the other heirs of Samuel Neal, Robert Durham made a trip back to Pennsylvania soon after Samuel's demise. He tried to interest some of the family in coming west with him to help with the management of the vast holdings or to accept some of the land in settlement of the estate. Two nephews of Samuel's returned with Robert after considerable persuasion had been brought to bear on them. They started west with fear and trepidation, and they never recovered from their timid apprehensive anticipation of the trip. Apparently they did not possess their uncle's pioneer spirit and brave heartedness.

These two young men packed drugs and medical supplies in great quantities, food and clothing, ammunition and fire arms enough of each to outfit a trip to darkest Africa. They knew nothing of life in the West or of the very different conditions confronting the pioneer stockmen. In Pennsylvania cows were gentle creatures, kept for milking purposes or for their usefulness in producing calves which grew to steers for market or more cows for useful production. Out on the Rancho Esquon the hills and lowlands were covered with thousands of Mexican cattle unlike anything they had ever beheld in Pennsylvania. The ferocious bulls guarding Sam's herds struck terror into the hearts of the Eastern boys, and for that matter they rendered any travel through the rancho on foot a perilous undertaking. [40]

The Neal bulls were generally used in the pens where the bear and bull fights were staged for the entertainment of miners, Indians, travelers, and all inhabitants of early Northern California. Fights were held in Marysville and in Oroville where heavy pens were provided for the spectacle. If the bear was a Grizzly the bull or steer did not have too much chance of survival: Black Bears often got the worst of it. The bulls from Rancho Esquon were as famous as the Neal horses. They had been known to attack a stage; they had on another occasion upset a coach and caused the passengers to run for their lives. They had kept two men in a tree for hours while they pawed the ground angrily below, throwing dust over their backs and into the air with vicious front hoofs. In the meantime the animals uttered low ominous bellows of hate and warning as they milled about with lowered heads and switching tails.

The nephews failed utterly to comprehend the extent of their uncle's magnificent estate or to learn the ways of the West. They could riot make the necessary adjustments; they were afraid of the cattle and afraid of the Indians and pioneer life in general. When their medicine gave out and their courage with it, they departed for Pennsylvania to the relief of all concerned. There was nothing left for Robert Durham to do but to dispose of the vast domain and send the cash back to them.

It was necessary to sell a considerable portion of the original rancho in order to settle with the heirs in cash. Robert Durham acquired by purchase that remaining part of Rancho Esquon which lay on the east side of Butte Creek and ran to a triangular point on the north, in addition to the 240 acres given him in Sam's will. He also bought Lots 6, 7, and 8south of the Durham - Oroville road. Lot 8 on the east became the property of G. W. Gridley by purchase soon after.

The well-preserved old document releasing Robert Durham of his responsibilities as administrator of the Neal Estate follows:

"Whereas Charles Neal and Spencer Neal both of the State of Pennsylvania did on the 25th day of May AD 1860 constitute and appoint Robert W. Durham and Charles F. Lott, both of the State of California, their true and lawful attorneys to settle before the Probate Court of Butte County, California the Estate of Samuel Neal late of said County and to receive from the Executors of Said Estate before said Court all of the Estate given devised or bequeathed to them by the Will of the said deceased giving and granting to them said Attorneys in fact full power to enter into and take possession upon the settlement of said Estate all the real and personal property and Estate that fell to them, with power to grant bargain and sell the Same for Such price and for Such Consideration as the Said Attorneys might deem proper, with power also to demand ask for receive Sue for and recover all Sums of money goods effects or lands as then were or thereafter might become due and payable to them and in all cases to execute and deliver receipts and acuitances where and when they may deem necessary with full power to do every act and thing necessary to be done in and about the premises as by reference unto the Said Letter of Attorney on file in the Clerics Office in Butte County State of California will fully appear.

And whereas the said attorneys in fact are also the Executors of the Said Estate of the Said Samuel Neal and the Said Estate has been finally and fully settled in the Said Probate Court, and the said Attorneys have Received all the Estate devised and be aquathed to the Said Charles and Spencer Neal, and have transferred the same to them.

And Whereas the said Charles and Spencer Neal by Deed bearing even date herewith have Sold and transferred the Estate so devised to them by the said Testator to the Said Robert W. Durham for the price or Sum of Thirty-three thousand two hundred dollars which they hereby acknowledge to have received, as well as the further Sum of Sixteen hundred and eighty dollars being the cost of Exchange on the Said Sum between the Said State of California and the Said State of Pennsylvania.

Know now All Men by these Presents that we the Said Charles and Spencer Neal do hereby ratify and confirm all the acts and proceedings which our Said Attorneys have heretofore done in and about the premises and hereby under the Will of Said Samuel Neal deceased and hereby releasing our Said Attorneys in fact and also the Said Executors from all claims and demands by us against the Said Estate in any manner way or form whatever from the beginning of the world to this date.

In Witness whereof the Said Charles and Spencer Neal have hereunto set their hands and seals the second day of September AD 1361.

Signed Sealed and Delivered in                                                                                   Charles Neal (Seal)

the presence of us                                                                  W C McKibbin

                                                                                                B A Mitchel             Spencer Neal (Seal)

On the same document appears the lengthy acknowledgment by one Joshua Spering, Commissioner of Deeds, and Resident of Philadelphia, Pa.

It is evident that the full confidence not only of Samuel Neal but of his brothers also in Pennsylvania must have been placed in Robert Durham and Charles Lott and their administration of the estate. The significant document of release, couched as it is in prolific legal phraseology, surely exempts them from any further liability upon the payment of the Thirty-three Thousand Two Hundred Dollars to them. Land was very cheap at that time and Robert probably purchased what he wished of the ranch from the estate for not less than $5.00 or more than $10.00 an acre. There is a record of a deed from Charles and Spencer Neal to Robert W. Durham as of September 2, 1861the same date as that given on the release.

In the county recorder's office in Oroville, Butte County, California, there are many records of old deeds made by Robert Durham to others after this settlement with the Neal heirs. It would appear that he purchased the remaining land on the east side of Butte Creek and sold it soon thereafter. On March 1, 1862, there is a record of one sale from R. W. Durham to Edward Taylor and from the description it must have been the property on the Feather River south of Oroville where Sam had his slaughterhouse. On August 19, 1863, there is a transfer from R. W. Durham to Charles Lott; on February 28, 1866, one from Durham and Lott to Butte County a right of way for the Durham - Oroville road. The road through the Neal estate had been a private road and even in the days when Robert Durham farmed there, my own father (Edward T. Reynolds), who lived west of Chico, told me that he lead to open and close gates when he cut through the ranch on his way to Oroville; he had Mr. Durham's permission to cross the ranch. My father was Supervisor of District No. 2 and made frequent trips to the County Seat. There is a recording as of October 20, 1868, from R. W. Durham to George W. Gridley and this was for a large tract known as Lot No, 8 (See map No. 2) on the south side of the Durham - Oroville road and toward the foothills to the east. Another deed for more land on the south was given to Mr. Gridley as of June 10, 1871.

Mr. Gridley was well known in Northern California and it was for him that the town of Gridley was named. His holdings extended from that settlement to ranches at Nelson and the property that he purchased at Durham formerly a part of Rancho Esquon. As Sam had been noted for his horses and his cattle, George Gridley was also well known for his interest in the sheep business. His herds were said to number from twenty to forty thousand. In the year of 1850 he had endeavored to drive both sheep and cattle out from the eastern states, but he had arrived in California with none of either. In 1852 he made a second attempt and finally reached Northern California with about 600 sheep, and with these he started his huge herds. At one time he was very wealthy but it is said that he died a poor man. [41]

In 1869 Robert Durham gave to his nephew, W. W. Durham, Lot 7 which was also south of the Durham - Oroville road and just to the west of the Lot 8 sold to Mr. Gridley. The deed to George Gridley of June 10, 1871, however, seems to be the last one made before Robert passed away early in the month of November of the same year. This land on the east side of Big Butte Creek is shown on the map No. 2, bearing the explanation, "Part of the Estate of R. W. Durham, Situated, surveyed and subdivided by order of the executors in May 1872 by James McGann, Surveyor in and for the County of Butte."

The map No. 3 is one of four in our possession that are almost identical excepting that they each describe a different tract of the acreage acquired by Robert Durham on the west side of Big Butte Creek. We recall that Samuel Neal left his friend two pieces which he describes as being on the north side of Butte Creek. The old channel of the stream swung out to the west as it neared the home place of Samuel Neal and this land would be north and west of it. Because he dwelt on this tract and was buried on it, and because it became the home place also of Robert and other members of the Durham family it is interesting to consider this particular section.

Sam left Robert two pieces, "the one of 160 acres, my present residence and the other of 80 acres lying above on the Creek with all the improvements etc. thereon." Robert evidently acquired additional acreage either by purchase from the Neal heirs or by claim, and I was told by Father W. W. Durham that a part of it was claimed by R. M. Turner whose land lay on the west and south of Neal's. The description of four hundred thirty-seven and a fraction acres is given as in four tracts. The northeast corner starts with a point just south of the old bridge over Big Butte Creek accommodating the traffic going from Chico to Hamilton or Oroville. This tract No. 1 lay in

Township 21 N R.1E and R.2., Sections 24 and 30:

83 & 69/100 acres

Tract No. 2 south of No. 1, extended into Sections 2530:

183 & 65/100 acres

Tract No. 3 south of No. 2, lay in Sections 2530:

162 & 13/100 acres

Tract No. 4 south of No. 3, lay in Section 30:

8 & 38/100 acres

437 & 85/100 acres

These tracts are described as being "within the exterior boundaries of the rejected Land Claim Aquas Nieves and described as Lots No. 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, and 56, Mount Diablo Meridian, claimed by R. W. Durham under Act of Congress approved July 23d, 1866." The survey of these tracts and the map was made by one Henry Hancock, a surveyor in the U. S. service. The statement for the work shows a charge of $65,00, and the maps, descriptions and statement are still in an excellent state of preservation.

The division and disposition of the various tracts of Rancho Esquon necessitated sale of many of the huge herds of cattle also. Many went to market and the finest of the domestic herds were sold for breeding; enough were retained to pasture the remaining acreage. The Neal horses too were reduced to about half of the original amount. The heavier stock went to stage lines and to those engaged in raising horses in the north. It was of interest to learn from my Grandmother Barnard [42] (mentioned in my story of Samuel Neal) that a few of the fine heavy mares were purchased by the McIntosh family and went to the Lone Tree Ranch in Colusa County. With them went a colt of Neal's famous mare, Black Maria, and some other of his lighter stock suitable for racing or lighter transportation use.

What a strange coincidence that Grandmother should remember the name of "Black Maria" when she gave me the many facts about Samuel Neal and the early days on Rancho Esquon before her death in 1910. It was thrilling indeed half a century later to find the name again in an old copy of the pioneer newspaper, the Northern Enterprise, in the County Library in Oroville. In Mansfield's "History of Butte County," there appears a short article about a horse race at Hamilton. It relates the fact that Neal's fine mare, Black Maria, was beaten by a horse entered by the Cherokee Indians, and that a great deal of money was lost to the Indians over the outcome of that event. Racing was a favorite sport in the early days of Butte County - along with the bear and bull fights. Both Robert Durham and Samuel Neal enjoyed the sport and entered horses in races in Hamilton and many other sections of the country.

Like Samuel, Robert did not live to a very old age. His administration of the Rancho Esquon and of the property he acquired from it was short and attended with hard work and much responsibility. An obituary given in the Northern Enterprise, on file in the County Library at Oroville, tells us that on the 21st day of September in the year of 1871, accompanied by his nephew, William W. Durham, Robert made a hurried trip to Missouri to settle some old land matters. His love of stock led him to visit a State Fair that was being held in St. Louis, and it was there that he contracted pneumonia. The attack proved fatal, as pneumonia had also proved fatal to Sam Neal a little over two years before. The article tells us that, by request before his death, Robert left his remains in charge of his old friends, Judge Burton and his cousin, Miss Wardall, both of whom were with him during his last illness.

His body was returned to California by his devoted nephew, William, and placed in a spot which he had designated as his last resting place. This plot is on the OrvilleChico road a short distance from Butte Creek and toward the northeast end of the Rancho. It was considerable distance from the headquarters of the ranch and the grave of Samuel Neal. A little knoll, covered with a grove of valley oaks was selected for the burial ground and it is still in use. A tall spire, very similar to that erected for Samuel Neal, was placed over the then lone grave on the top of the knoll. The stone is mossy and weathered and creeping myrtle covers the knoll and all semblances of the original mounds, but the old monument plainly bears the inscription:

ROBERT W. DURHAM, NATIVE OF VIRGINIA

DIED OCTOBER 22ND, 1871 AGE 52 YEARS

The obituary extols Robert in a loyal and admiring tribute. It was written by someone who apparently knew him well and tells of his having left the comforts and staid and settled habits of his native state to face the severe and trying privations common to frontier life. He is described as having very thorough business habits and of possessing the ability to judge human nature very accurately. He was eccentric and many who did not know him looked upon Robert Durham as a stern, uncompromising character. Those who did know him said that a more generous soul or larger heart never animated a human body. He hated dishonesty but his heart and hand were always open to the needy. His charities were many and without ostentation. He was upright and honest a true and faithful friend.

It is encouraging to know that Robert Durham was of the more respected class of pioneers. It is highly improbable that any of the average men of that day lived chaste, exemplary lives under the existing circumstances. Without wives, children or the benefit of home influences, they sought their entertainment and relaxation where and when opportunity presented itself.

Oroville was notorious in Northern California for its iniquities. Houses of prostitution were in abundance and the inmates flaunted themselves disgustingly on every street corner. Brawling, drunkenness and gambling furnished the excitement day and night for the carousing, lawless element who floated in and out of town.

Those pioneers of finer breeding and more elevated thought and habit deplored the depravity of the little town and sought their entertainment in racing, lodges and other less strenuous activities. George Mansfield in his History of the County of Butte, tells us that as much as $10,000 was won or lost on a race at Chico and that the betting ran high on such events during the "fifties" and "sixties."

The Indians followed the example of their white brothers and became demoralized through the excessive use of intoxicants and the abandonment of their natural life and habits. Many of their squaws became the victims willing or otherwise of the sexual desires of the stronger white race.

Such were conditions surrounding the life of Robert Durham and of Samuel Neal. Those men who were fortunate enough to have their families with them and those of finer sensibilities and ideals, gradually brought law and order and a way of life more fitting for their women and children to the north country.

So the short regime of Robert W. Durham, the first of the Durhams to come to Northern California, ended in 1871. Like Samuel Neal he had never married, but the family records state that he had an illegitimate child whose mother was a Mrs. Murphy living in Missouri or Virginia. This child a daughter afterward married a man by the name of Brown. No mention of these two was made in his will. Father W. W. Durham left that information in his notes made on a trip to Missouri and Kentucky in later years, so it may be a fact and it may be the result of a claim.

The lengthy but interesting will follows:

"I, Robert W. Durham of the County of Butte and State of California, visiting at Lexington, Missouri, being of sound and disposing mind and memory, yet sick in body and conscious of the uncertainty of life, and the certainty of death, do make and publish this my last well and testament, hereby revoking all other Wills by me heretofore made:

ITEM FIRST: It is my will that all my just debts if any, be paid out of my estate, by my executors hereinafter named, as soon as may be after my decease.

ITEM SECOND: It is my will and direction that my body be decently buried after my decease on my farm in Butte County, California, hereinafter mentioned, on which the Butte Valley Hotel is situated and near and south of said Hotel, at a suitable place, with such head and foot stones; or monument, over and about my grave, as my executors deem appropriate and proper; and in case of my death from home, it is my wish and desire that my body properly coffined, be as soon as may be transported to my said farm in California for burial.

ITEM THIRD: I give and bequeath to my sisters Mary Durham and Julia Ann Hinkle, wife of Jacob Hinkle, of the State of West Virginia, and to their heirs and assigns, equally and share and share alike, my farm in Morgan County, State of West Virginia, containing about one hundred and ninety three acres, with the privileges and appurtenances thereunto belonging.

ITEM FOURTH: I give and bequeath to my nephew William W. Durham of Butte County, California, as trustee and in trust for my brother William Durham of same county, the sum of Three Thousand Dollars, to be by him loaned out on good security at the highest legal rate of interest and the interest accruing thereon, to pay annually to and for the use, benefit, support and maintenance of my said Brother, William Durham, for and during his natural life time, and at his death, said principal sum of Three Thousand Dollars, shall be paid to, go and belong to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum (not positive as to correct name) located and situated in the City of San Francisco, in the State of California, absolutely, for the uses of said Asylum..

ITEM FIFTH: I give and bequeath to my friend Mrs. Nellie Hopkins wife of William L. Hopkins, of the City of San Francisco, State of California, my farm in Butte County, California: containing about one Hundred and Sixty acres, on which is situated the Butte Valley Hotel, with privileges and appurtenances thereunto belonging (except the crop of grain grown thereon in the year A. D. 1871 which is reserved) for and during her natural life time, as her separate property, free and exempt from the control of her said husband and in no manner to be subject or liable to the payment of her debts or liabilities present or future, and at the death of said Mrs. Nellie Hopkins, said farm to go and I hereby give and bequeath the same with its privileges and appurtenances, on and after the death of said Mrs. Nellie Hopkins, to the said Deaf and Dumb Asylum of and in the State of California, located in the City of San Francisco, as aforesaid, absolutely and in fee simple title.

ITEM SIXTH: I give and bequeath to my Nephew, William W. Durham of Butte County, California and to his heirs and assigns forever, my home farm and place in said Butte County, California; containing about Four Hundred and forty acres, with its privileges and appurtenances, (except the grain crop grown thereon in the year 1871 which is reserved) which farm lies west of Butte Creek.

ITEM SEVENTH: I give and bequeath to my friend Moses Chapxnan of Lafayette County, Missouri: Two Thousand dollars in money, absolutely, and to my friends Eldrige Burden, Robert F. Waddel and Sarah Juliette Tevis wife of Mr. Daniel W. B. Tevis also of Lafayette County, Missouri the sum of One Thousand dollars each in money absolutely.

ITEM EIGHTH: It is my will and I hereby direct: that all my personal property of every nature and kind, (except money, bonds, notes & chases in action) including grain, cattle, hogs, horses etc., and all my real estate not herein otherwise disposed of, be sold by my executors hereinafter named or their successors on such terms, Cash or Credit or partly for Cash and partly on Credit, as my executors may deem best; and that my bonds, notes and chases in action be collected & converted into money by my executors as soon as may be after my decease, the proceeds of such sales, as well as the proceeds of the collections of my notes & bonds, chases in action and other moneys after the payment and satisfaction of the specific and pecuniary legacies herein given to other persons; and after the payment of the costs & expenses of Administering upon & winding up my estate; I give and bequeath to the said deaf & dumb asylum, situated in the City of San Francisco, California aforesaid absolutely for the uses of said Asylum.

ITEM NINTH: I give and bequeath to my friend Joseph C. Wortzbarger of Butte County, California, my Gold Watch:

ITEM TENTH: All the rest and residue of my estate and property of whatever nature and kind, and wherever located or situated, I hereby give and bequeath to the said Deaf and Dumb Asylum located and situated in the City of San Francisco, State of California aforesaid, absolutely for the uses and purposes of said Asylum.

I hereby nominate, constitute and appoint my Nephew, William W. Durham & my friend Charles F. Lott Esqr of the County of Butte and State of California as Executors of this my last will and testament.

Witness my hand and seal this 19th day of October A. D. 1871

Robert W. Durham (Seal)

The document was witnessed by John W. Waddell, Henry C. Wallace and Wiley Jennings. There is affixed also an authorization for the matter of signature which indicates the seriousness of Robert Durham's last illness: "Having signed the above and foregoing as my last will and testament with my own hand, though imperfectly and rather unintelligently done, and being unable now to write my name any better, I, Robert Durham hereby authorize and request John W. Waddell, to sign my name & affix my seal hereto, as my act and deed as follows," etc.

In the Durham papers there is another will made previously that has the date and signature left for filling in. It is in Robert's handwriting and differs somewhat from the later document. The first bequest in it is one to his "beloved Mother, Frances Durham, now of the State of Virginia." Frances Durham passed away in 1867 before he made his fatal trip to Missouri. The day and month are left blank and the year is also indefinite, "A. D. 186...." As in the later will the Deaf and Dumb Asylum is left the largest legacy.

We wonder just how Robert Durham came to be so deeply interested in the Deaf and Dumb Asylum in San Francisco. The fact too that he left a sum to his nephew W. W. Durham for the support of his brother W. W. Durham leaves the impression that his brother might have been so afflicted or else an invalid for some other reason and unable to care for himself. The first will specifies the home of the brother as in the State of Missouri, but the last will gives the home of William as being of the same county as the nephew in California. Robert's brother William passed away however before the will was probated, and his nephew placed him beside Robert on the little knoll on the property which had then been set aside as a cemetery plot. An imposing monument also marks his grave, bearing the inscription:

WILLIAM DURHAM

DIED AUG. 30, 1873

AGED 62 YEARS

NATIVE OF MORGAN CO. VA.

In the matter of the probate of the will of Robert, his nephew George Durham was duly appointed as their attorney in fact by Julia Hinkle and Mary Durham sisters of Roberto take any necessary steps in acquiring the legacy left them by their brother. Their lengthy letter of appointment on the usual foolscap, signed with names, crosses and seals was witnessed by William F. Braithwaite, a Justice of the Peace, on the 14th day of March 1872. It also bears the seal of Derick County, Virginia, and the testimony of Jas. P. Rielyce, the clerk of the County Court, certifying the signature of the Justice of the Peace; so the appointment of George by his aunts was sent to William with all of the necessary legal force they evidently considered essential.

The will of Robert W. Durham was filed in the Probate Court of Butte County at Oroville on February 27, 1872. The final account was filed on the 31st day of May 1878. The estate is listed as being worth the sum of $107,102.41, as follows:

Real Estate, sold

$65,900.00

Personal Property, sold

8,564.12

Debts Collected

17,024.43

Rents from Real Estate

2,283.86

Real Estate devised to W. W. Durham

13,230.00

Gold Watch

100.00

$107,102.41

The disbursements were:

                For claims allowed and approved

$ 2,986.90

                Specific legacies

5,000.00

                Expenses of Administration

5,430.62

                Home farm to William W. Durham

13,230.00

                Watch to Wortzbarger

100.00

                Commission of Executors

4,404.08

                (Jno. P. Leonard $20, County Clerk

                15.15, Accruing costs to be paid)

35.15

$ 31,186.75

The Directors of the Institution for the Deaf, Dumb and Blind in San Francisco received the bulk of the estate $75,915.66 at the time of this settlement. Mrs. Nellie Hopkins died before the will was probated, so did not receive the Butte Valley Ranch given her as specified, and this ranch also went to the asylum. It was situated above the Chico - Oroville road and was previously known as the Johnson Ranch, and is shown on the map of the original Esquon Grant. It was northwest of the cemetery set aside by Robert and designated as his burial place.

*          *          *          *

So again the Rancho Esquon passed into the possession of new masters and became divided, divided again and again. As the administration of the Samuel Neal estate and the settlement with relatives in the eastern states had necessitated division of the big grant, so again with the death of Robert and the subsequent administration of his will, more division and more sales became necessary. His 22,000 acres were mostly put on the market. The lots numbered from one on the north, south to those below the road from Durham and Dayton to Oroville. Some of them were sold at auction from the steps of the courthouse in Oroville and many of the old deeds are recorded there.

After four weeks publication of notice to sell, Lots 1 to 7 (see map No. 2) were sold to the highest bidder on April 23, 1873. From Lot 1, 388 and 81/100 acres were first sold; Lots 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7, 2,899 and 14/100 acres, brought a bid from George C. Perkins of $44,300, which was accepted by Executors W. W. Durham and C. F. Lott. (Book M, pages 204, 5, 6.)

On May 20, 1873, there is recorded a deed to George Perkins and John McKinney for part of Lot 1 from W. W. Durham (Book M, pages 2089) described as 125 86/100 acres in the northwest quarter of Section 4, etc., and the price paid was $1200 in gold coin.

On May 20, also in the same year, George Perkins mortgaged his lands for $29,533 at the time of purchase. The mortgage is recorded as payable to the Durham Estate. (Book M, page 209)

On May 20, same year, George C: Perkins deeded to W. W. Durham and George Durham, for $6,941.41, a tract commencing at a stake at the southwest corner of land now owned by C. F. Lott, to Gridley tract, then to and along the center of Butte Creek, also subject to portions of the mortgage. (Book M, page 209) (Lots 6 and 7)

On June 18, 1873, William W. Durham signed a deed to the Central Pacific Railway Company for a strip of land 100 feet wide, commencing at the southern boundary of the northwest quarter of Section 30, Township 21 N., R. 2 E Mount Diablo Base, 3,600 feet with line of said railroad to north boundary line in southwest half of Section 19, Township 21, N. R. 2 E., a right of way, through that portion of the estate of Robert W. Durham. (Book M, pages 2689)

Another sale is recorded in Book M, page 665, from W. W. Durham to R. M. Cochran on November 7, 1873, a lot described as commencing at the south boundary of Lot 53.

Transfers from purchasers to executors and back to purchasers follow in the next few years and only those who are gone could explain the reason for the many recorded deeds on the lots lying to the east of Butte Creek. On December 30, 1875, W. W. Durham and George Durham deeded back to W. W. Durham and C. F. Lott. Executors of the R. W. Durham estate, Lots 6 and 7, 540 acres, for $7,000 in gold coin. (Book P, page 239)

George W. Perkins deeded back to the executors 493 62/100 acres, a tract described as from the middle of the channel of Butte Creek at the southwest corner of Lot 4, east to the Northwest corner of the Lott land, then south to a road between Lots 5 and 6. The sale was for $10,000. Perkins and Kinney also returned to the executors 1864 and 11/100 acres for $30,000. (Book P, pages 645 and Book 1, pages 4956)

Another sale by the executors from the courthouse steps was held on January 10, 1876. The undivided half of Lot 1 that had first been sold to George Perkins was then sold to Thomas Callow, the highest bidder, for $3800.00. (Book P, page 111)

George Durham bought Lot 3 at this auction from the executors for $7600, comprising 613 87/100 acres, (Book P, page 116)

At another auction on the 8th of March, 1876, John L, Kinney bought from the executors Lot 2, 441 31 / 100 acres, for the same price of $7600. The old description runs from rocks to trees and to Robbers' Gulch and other interesting landmarks. (Book P, page 113)

On March 9, 1876, W. W. Durham filed at the United States Land Office in Marysville an application for the return of purchase money paid by Robert W. Durham on the Entry of Lots 29, 30, 31, 32 in Section 24; Lots 2, 4, and 7 in Section 25, Tract 14, Township 21 N., R. 1 E.; Lots 22, 23, 28, and 29 of Section 19; Lots 1, 4, 5, 7 and 21 of Section 30, Tract 13; and Lots 11, 13, 16, and 19 of Section 30, Tract 15, Township 21 N., R. 2 E., M.D.M. as per certificate No. 4679, dated March 24, 1871 and cancelled April 30, and Oct. 26, 1872 by Commissioners letters.

This was evidently foothill land for the most part on the northern and eastern part of the Esquon grant. It was almost barren and the lava rock lay near the surface or only a few inches below it. Only a short growth of scanty grass and wild flowers grew there affording a very limited sheep pasturage in the spring. This property was deeded to the United States on March 9, 1876, by W. W. Durham. (Book P, page 104)

*          *          *          *

William opened an account book in June, 1872, in which be recorded various entries pertaining to the sale of stock, grain and farm implements presumably the property of his Uncle's estate. A sorrel mare was sold to George Gridley for $40.00: horses and an old wagon were sold to J. L. Stephenson. These entries constitute some of the first recordings in the old books. Other interesting items tell of the sale on September 24, 1872, to James Darland F66 Company, of one yoke of oxen for $110.00, one ox wagon on credit for $40.00, a single set of buggy harness for $10.00 and an oxen yoke and chains for $12.50. By this record we know that there were still oxen in use on the Durham Ranch during Robert's regime. There is a notation of a check sent to C. F. Lott for $1,000 to pay the estate taxes for 1871, and one also to the Judge for $5,000 to pay off legacies and claims against the estate of R. W. Durham.

Evidently brothers George and William worked together in farming and in sharing the responsibility of crops and harvests. There are many entries of sales of barley, wheat, horses, hogs, hay, pasturage and the usual farm produce. There are also recorded many items of expense for Indian labor, Chinese cooks, and long lists of food, supplies and mysterious purchases under the name of sundries. There are charges for cash to George Durham and credits to him for cash paid out by him. One entry of November, 1873, charges John Hupp for hay, $83.00, cash $22.00 and pasturage for 2 cows, 13 oxen; the last item mentioned is not marked "paid." I believe that John Hupp purchased the Neat sawmill above Malagia. [43] The old account book with its entries of many names of long ago would prove of considerable interest to the older residents of the Durham community, as they would probably find many familiar names of friends and relatives written on the fading pages.

The first mention of a Chinese garden is in November 1873. Through many years the Mow Sing Chinese Company leased about 30 acres from year to year from the Durhams and raised vegetables on it. The name "Mow Sing" is first mentioned in the ledger in 1875, and the garden was still in operation and by the same company when I left the ranch in 1922. The garden was just north of the adobe house that, Samuel Neal had lived in and his grave was under the oak tree that also shaded the large shed where the Chinese lived. On the east side the garden bordered Butte Creek and it was irrigated by a ditch bearing water from the stream that had been dug by Samuel Neal's Indians.

On June 20, 1873, W. W. Durham deeded a tract of his land west of the right-of-way of the railroad to the Durham Flour Mill. He also entered into a contract with James Darland, who was the original purchaser of the property upon which the old mill was built. The deed called for approximately 18 acres of land and the description ran north along the west side of the Central Pacific right-of-way for about 850 feet, west for approximately 46 feet and then south again, containing much of the ground now traversed by public highways and roads, The price was $450.00. The contract called for the construction of "a good and substantial flour mill containing three runs of burs, with all of the necessary machinery pertaining to a first class flouring mill, for the manufacturing of good merchantable flour." The building was to be completed by the first day of September of the same year.

During these early days the water ran both in winter and summer from the larger streams' bountiful supply. This mill was built by Goss and Cochran and was purchased by William Taylor in 1882. It was destroyed by fire in 1883 and Mr. Taylor left Durham for other milling ventures in the West. In April 1886 he returned to Durham to again make flour for the growing community. The Durham Milling Company was incorporated with a capital stock of $30,000 and the new mill was operated by steam with the old stone grinding technique.

The second mill met the same fate as the first and burned to the ground in 1900. More capital had been added to the corporation in 1895 and a new mill was built at once and celebrated New Years day in 1901 by turning out the first sackful of flour. [44] The grinding stones in the mills of the north were hauled from "Mill" Creek on the west side of the valley as that stone was particularly suited for the purpose. The new mill boasted the latest roller type grinding and stood until the year 1940 when it was razed. The tall building was located north of the corner where the Durham Oroville road crossed the railroad tracks.

William Morse Taylor probably operated it longer and with more success than any of the other managers or owners. He came to California in 1876 and became associated in the grain business with John Traynor. Traynor was the descendant of a pioneer who arrived in California in 1848. John became a wealthy landowner, bought and sold grain and also was a partner of W. T. Ellis of Marysville in the flourmill of that city. At one time he was financially interested also in the little mill at Durham.

This little mill at Durham struggled on through the years in spite of fire and flood. W. W. Durham was a stockholder in it and took a definite interest in backing those who operated it. Others who managed it were Goss and Cochran. The last manager who took it over at the death of Mr. Taylor was an old family friend whom I well remember. He managed the Chico Mill for many years and his name was appropriately Henry Miller. Mr. Taylor's products were of a high standard and were known and used widely throughout Northern California.

White wheat was imported from the eastern states and mixed with the darker and richer grain of the west. Older residents will still remember the "Harvest Queen" brand of flour. We then bought our flour in fifty or a hundred pound bags and made our own bread.

On the heavy white muslin bag front there was stamped a picture of the harvest queen, which was surrounded by the brand and other data. The picture was of the head of a round faced maiden whose hair was embellished with heads of fat wheat, barley, ribbons and flowers. There was also another brand of flour manufactured under the name of "Forest Oak." Then there was a cereal turned out by the little mill called "Our Favorite Mush." It was a rich, whole-wheat cereal delicious, nutritious and very fattening.

The third mill has long ceased to stand by the tracks, for it too eventually was destroyed and was not again rebuilt. The larger mills in the more populous cities gradually took over the business of the small ones and the little mills had a difficult struggle to show a dividend to their stockholders.

The Harvest Queen is no longer known in the northern counties, and we now buy our flour in five and ten pound paper bags for the most part and our bread at the bakery. Our dishtowels and the undergarments of our children do not bear the picture of the lovely lady with sheaves of wheat in her hair and a wreath around her head as they did half a century ago. Our children seldom eat cooked mush but mostly puffy stuff shot from guns, which requires no cooking.

According to the account book, William and George were farming Lots 6 and 7 during the years 1873, 1874 and 1875. These were the lots just west of the property given to W. W. Durham by his Uncle Robert. They were south of the Durham - Oroville road and east of Butte Creek. Cultivation and farming were then in progress on Rancho Esquon to some extent. Over a thousand dollars worth of barley was sold in 1873 from these lots in addition to the sale of wheat, hay and pasturage. In December of 1875 there was recorded, on the 31st, a transfer by deed of Lots 6 and 7 from W. W. Durham and George Durham to C. F. Lott and W. W. Durham, Executors, for payment of $7,000. This is the record on Page 239 of Book P.

Judge Lott of Oroville later acquired a farm of very desirable acreage on the northern part of the original Rancho Esquon probably a part of Lot 1 or 2, or both. The land lay between Butte Creek on the west and the foothills on the east. To this day nothing grows on those barren, rocky hills which rise like the edge of an inverted saucer around the rich area where grand old oak trees stand as witnesses to the luxury of deep, rich soil. Lush feed covers the fields between the creek and the hills where the early summer north winds blow down the valley to turn them a pale burned yellow color. There only a few rabbits, lizards or sneaking coyotes have dared to seek out an existence through the centuries. From the little knoll by the Chico - Oroville road which Robert Durham designated as his last resting place, one can look across rich farming country on this part of the ranch to the west, north and south, but to the east these hills rise dry and uninviting.

In time a little school was built just east of the cemetery and it was called the Neal School. A short distance farther along the road the George Durham house stood on the east of the present Chico road. Probably before Sam Neal passed away a saloon stood near the same bend in the highway with a circle of trees in front and a horse trough in their shade. Travelers quenched their thirst in the little roadhouse while the horses drank from the trough. [45]

Robbers' Gulch was so named because of a stage holdup that took place a short distance south of the George Durham home. The old road crossed the gulch there and the robbers hid in a sycamore tree that was still standing in 1952 when I visited the scene with Ed Branns of Durham. The little gulch still winds its way down through the fields north and south of the cemetery and accounts for much of their fertility and moisture.

George Durham farmed the lands which he purchased from the estate of his Uncle Robert, also those lands belonging to the estate which he farmed with his brother William in a joint account. He accumulated considerable wealth before his death on October 18, 1880. He was ill only five days and his death resulted from pneumonia the same cause as that which took the life of his uncle and Samuel Neal. Pneumonia struck quickly and mercilessly during the early days of California; three or four days of high temperature, a day of unconsciousness and hearts gave out at too early an age.

George's age is given as 45 on the tall spire that marks his grave. This spire stands on the same knoll as that of his uncle a little to the west of it. The fast fading inscription tells us that he was a native of Morgan County, Virginia. He was a member of Oroville Lodge, No. 103, and Chico Lodge, No. 42, of Free and Accepted Masons. There is a document in the papers of W. W. Durham granting George the Power of Attorney to collect all moneys due Martha J. Dawson and Sarah E. Hefner of McClean County, Illinois the two sisters of George and William. George left no children and evidently remembered his sisters in his will. [46]

George's widow, Louise B. Durham, married a man by the name of Brown. She was somewhat of an invalid and a neighbor, Mrs. Holland, took care of her during her last illness. Evidently Mr. Brown was not sympathetic or was lacking in love and devotion to his wife; perhaps he was impatient to acquire the inheritance he might receive at her death. Anyway, Mrs. Holland remembered through the years his often-repeated remark to her, "Why does she persist in living?"

Louise finally accommodated her husband by passing away on November 6, 1893, at the age of 44 years. She did not wish to be placed under the earth so a pretentious tomb was built for her above ground. It does not bear the name of Brown but stands beside the grave of George and bears the inscription, "Louise B. Durham, beloved wife of G. W. Durham. Asleep in Jesus."

There was a road running from the cemetery south to the Durham - Oroville road and on it was the Ackerman place where orange trees were planted in front. I seem to recall that George Durham also built a later home on this same road: perhaps he was laving there and the Hollands were in the old house at the time of his death. Anyway the little house by the cemetery was occupied by the Hollands at the time of, or soon after, his death, These homes and those of the Branns family, the Bateman family and the Johnson house were the first houses on the northern part of the Rancho Esquon.

The family of James Franklin Holland lived in the old George Durham home by the cemetery in 1880 or 1881. The Branns and Bateman families lived farther on east and south. Their children attended the little school that stood by the bend in the road and the home of George Durham. The Holland children drew water in the trough for the teams of the old stage driver whose name was Jim Finnegan. He would reward them with twenty-five cents.

Robbers' Gulch [47] ran just back of the house and furnished the water supply for home and school. In winter it sometimes became a torrent and then Mother Holland stood guard and would not let the Branns children cross it to the school but turned them back to their home on the Lott ranch. [48]

Joe Branns, the children's father, farmed the tract of land purchased by Judge Lott from the Neal estate of approximately 900 acres. Some of it ran out into the hills and was not very fertile. It was the farm Mr. Branns leased in 1872 from the Judge and before Sam's death he worked for Sam Neal also. He hauled the lumber and posts for the first fences that were built on Rancho Esquon.

South of the Durham - Oroville road a huge tract of about 17,800 acres, which was originally a part of Rancho Esquon and which had been purchased by C. E. Gridley and George Gridley from the Samuel Neal estate, again changed hands on September 4, 1879. It was then sold to Boggs, Pond and Clarke (Book S of Deeds, pages 190193). This tract excepted the town of Nelson, which had become a shipping point for grain.

George Gridley became very wealthy at farming, sheep raising and in buying and shipping wool in carload lots to the east during these early years of Northern California development. He unfortunately became involved with obligations, notes and the indebtedness of others and lost his wealth for a time. Probably for this reason, he sold his large grazing domain extending through Nelson to the Durham area. I was told by Ed Branns that in order to save his herds of thousands of sheep, he took ten men and drove them to Idaho, leaving word behind that he was not to be followed, the penalty would be gunfire. C. E. Gridley was his oldest son and the lands were in joint tenancy with him.

On December 10, 1880, the same 17,800 acres were sold by E. B. Pond, John Boggs and C. W. Clarke to Leland Stanford. The sale was for $324,000 for land described as being in Section 28, Township 21, N.R. 2E, along Butte Creek and to the south line of the Durham - Oroville road and the lands of W. W. Durham and C. F. Lott, etc., and again excepting the town of Nelson. In 1883 William Durham also deeded 160 acres to Leland Stanford and the huge Stanford Ranch at Durham came into being.

Headquarters for the Stanford properties were established first on the north side of the Durbars - Oroville road, west of the bridge over Butte Creek on a small tract between the property of W. W. Durham and the creek. It was really between the old and the new channels of that stream. Large barns, shops and sheds for equipment stood in the lot when I went to live at Durham as a bride in 1906. Later the office buildings were located almost on the site of the old hotel which was originally on the east side of the channel: this hotel my grandparents (Allyn M. and Sarah Barnard) kept for Samuel Neal in the early fifties.

*          *          *          *

You might wonder what became of the Sam Neal Indians. They were still living in a large rancheria just west of Sam's adobe home and the headquarters of the Robert Durham Ranch during Robert's residence there. The camp and the nearby burying ground were just back of the Durham home later built by William for his bride. There was another burying ground to the south near the present Goodspeed residence and still another on the west side of the railroad on the property formerly owned by W. W. Durham there. Probably there was a camp near the latter burial place also. Beads, milling stones for acorns and grain, arrowheads and other relics could be found at any of these places after a hard rain when I lived on the ranch. Once we washed out in a tub some dirt that came from a posthole being dug just back of the house, and we found the dirt full of beads. They were interesting; some were of crude Indian manufacture from bone, and some were undoubtedly furnished by white men probably in Sam's time. They were of early day manufacture in red and white porcelain.

The camp on the east side of Butte Creek was the first to go. The inhabitants either moved into the hills or to the other nearby camps when the land was sold after Robert died, Indians still worked on the ranch for Robert and for William and George after the former had passed away. They ate whatever was furnished them or whatever they could accumulate without too much effort. They celebrated the harvests and danced their traditional Clover Dance, the Dance of the Dead and the Dance of the Great Spirit.

The men grew increasingly dissipated through the use of liquor obtained from the white population. The women were willing or unwilling victims of the desires of the white men who settled the hills and valleys during the days of the gold rush. Before the coming of the white men the Indians had been an exceptionally moral race; any practice of adultery was severely punished even by a death penalty. From 1850 on, there were many half-breeds many who knew no paternal parent to help them.

In their primitive state the Indians were used to going without clothing, but with the coming of the white population and their subsequent employment by them or living near them, they delighted in acquiring any cast off articles available to them. They wore such covering without fitness or discretion as to the part of the body for which it was originally intended. They would wear several garments at a time and then would cast them off when warm or inconvenienced, with no regard for health. Colds and pneumonia would result and the death rate rose rapidly. Smallpox and measles also took a heavy toll.

A people who had flourished in nakedness and indolence and squalor under the benign protection of their Great Spirit, deteriorated and died under the so called civilizing processes imposed upon them by their white brothers. The camps in which they lived became increasingly filthy as no effort was made to sanitize either the camp or the surroundings. When conditions became unbearable they simply moved to a new site until the old one was cleansed by time and the elements.

To the west and south of the Indians' camps, the little town of Durham came into being with the building of the railroad in 1870. From all available information it was Robert Durham who first planned the settlement as a shipping point for the ranch produce. Some sources give the credit to William. A letter from Miss Laura Roesch, the sister of the second wife of William, gives the following account from an early record which she believed was true:

“ . . . William W. Durham is living near the town which bears his name, given that in honor of his Uncle Robert Durham. The latter was a native of west Virginia, came to this state in 1852 and became owner of 22,400 acres known as the Esquon or Neal Grant, now known as the Stanford Ranch. Robert Durham became a man of prominence in this locality, founded the town of Durham, supported all measures that had for their object the upbuilding of the valley and flied while on a visit to Lexington. Missouri in 1871."

In Harry L. Wells' "History of Butte County," published in 1882, he tells us that the Town of Durham was founded about 1870 and that it was a prominent shipping center. Located there were large warehouses built by W. B. Pratt and "now" belonging to his estate. In these houses grain was piled high after the harvesting season, for the virgin soil of the rich overflow lands adjacent to the channel of Butte Creek and its tributaries produced in abundance for the early ranchers.

To the south of the little town and of Butte Creek, stretching to the east and west lay Great Plains of black adobe. Excepting where the creek or its small tributaries crossed it on their way to the Sacramento River it was almost treeless. Willows and sycamores marked the watercourses but no oak forests grew there to obstruct the view eastward to the hills which rose from the adobe at their feet as bare as the plain. Mirey and sticky during the rainy seasons, it could not be ploughed and sown to grain early enough in the spring to produce a crop by summer. After the harvest of the richer lands it was cultivated in the fall and sown when horses and mules could traverse it without balling up their feet in huge, heavy lumps of black mud which increased in size on hoofs and long tails like a rolling snowball. The crop was called the summer fallow. Now in the summertime this land is mostly covered by a thin mirror of water through which green shoots of rice grow in odd shaped checks, contoured to the land. The adobe was found to be useful for this purpose because it held water better than the richer, sandy, sedimentary soils.

So grain was grown on all sides of Durham in early years. As it was then the most profitable crop; years ago long teams could be seen pulling wagons hitched together and loaded with the wheat and barley from the surrounding fields. They drew up to the warehouses or delivered wheat to the flour mill, and white men or Indian laborers piled the cinnamon colored jute bags high while the weary hot teams swung around and returned for another load.

Now the grain is raised on less valuable soil and the Durham area is a garden spot of orchards and vegetables, fruits, nuts and alfalfa hay, melon patches and bean patches - in fact, almost everything but grain grows on the lands once covered by the great oaks and sycamores along the channels of Butte Creek and on the nearby sedimentary soils above the adobe. Where the Sam Neal Indians pounded the acorns to flour and wild cattle fed on the natural wild hay and grass, gardens, homes and shady lanes now enhance a lovely rural area. The deer have fled to the high hills along with the few remaining black bear. Now and then a coyote sneaks out of the low hills to the east hoping for a stray sheep, squirrel or scurrying cottontail. Ducks and geese $y in long triangular formation over the rice fields and honk their mournful cry as they did a century ago, but the dainty little antelope and the stately elk no longer feed with wild cattle. The grizzlies no longer hide in the brush and low swails to menace the calves and young of the other animals or to terrorize the Indians; the mountain lions are few and far up in the hills.

Paved highways cross the Rancho Esquon and carry cars, trucks and buses at a speed that would be unbelievable to Sam or to Robert Durham the first. These pioneers spent hours in the saddle covering the trail from Durham to Oroville or Paradise or Dogtown. Father Durham used to say that men who ride alone in the mountains, ride alone with God. Who can say that these pioneers did not enjoy a peace and satisfaction, unknown to those who dash over the hills looking only at the road ahead?

CHAPTER III

Neither Samuel Neal nor Robert Durham was greatly interested in horticulture or with experimenting with the possibilities of valley soils. William W. Durham learned the art of budding and grafting. He planted orchards and encouraged the Chinese in raising all sorts of vegetables in their gardens on his property.

Miss Roesch's biography tells us that he was the youngest of six children and that he was born in Morgan County; West Virginia, June 8, 1844. His education was received in the common schools and as a young man he learned the trade of a carpenter. He came to California as I have told you in 1861 with his brother, George, by way of the Isthmus of Panama. After the settlement of his Uncle's affairs and the disposition of most of his lands, he finally concentrated his efforts on the development of the 440 acres of land on the west side of Butte Creek that were left to him. All of the improvements on this ranch were made by him, and in 1874 he built the fine residence which still stands about a half mile from the little settlement of Durham on the east, between the railroad and Butte Creek.

Inspired by the genius and progressive efforts of his friend, John Bidwell, William planted orchards which he pruned, grafted, sprayed and sometimes even irrigated. He grew a variety of fruits and nuts. There were orange trees on his grounds bearing lemons and limes on the same tree. There were luscious berries and grapes, persimmons and apples. Many of the grape cuttings had originally been brought from Los Angeles or San Diego by General Bidwell or Peter Lassen before 1850. These pioneers of horticulture made the entire trip on horseback for these treasures in the days of Samuel Neal.

Just where and when William first met his wife, Minnie Louisa Van Ness, we will never know. She was a resident of Stockton at the time, and her father was a well know engineer who had come out from the East to lie out the City of San Francisco. It was for Minnie's father that the beautiful, wide avenue in the heart of San Francisco was named. He also drew a plot for the City of Chico at the request of John Bidwell.

Although the Van Ness family were Protestants, Minnie and her sister were educated in a convent. The cultural arts were best taught in these institutions at that time, and Minnie and Mary or Mollie, as she was called, were well educated and spoke French fluently. There were few exciting social affairs in Butte County then that would have been attractive or appropriate for ladies of refinement. Sacramento or Stockton were not too far away to discourage young people from braving the long stage ride down and back when a gala occasion warranted the trip.

I have been told that Billy Durham, Patrick Flannery and a young gentleman by the name of Richardson, who afterward became owner of the famous resort of the same name, sometimes attended social functions in one or the other of these villages. In fact it was at a well advertised Cotillion in Sacramento attended by these three that Billy and Patrick became interested in the Van Ness sisters and the dual courtship began.

The wedding of Minnie and Billy Durham took place in Stockton, on the 8th of October, 1874, according to the certificate of marriage, which is well embellished in scrolls of gilt and black. The minister who officiated and affixed his signature to the document was Martin Post, pastor of the Congregational Church of Stockton. The witnesses were I. D. Peters and T. J. Parsons.

Minnie Louisa was one of five children; she had two brothers and two sisters. A brother, Farrett A. Van Ness, died in Linn County, Oregon, in 1908. Mollie married Patrick Flannery who owned a shoe store in Marysville and she lived and died in that city. A third sister married a Mr. Myers and, like her sisters, passed away at an early age. In the Durham cemetery are the graves of Jane Van Ness, who died March 2, 1880, aged 63 years, and of Abner Van Ness, who died July 18, 1875, aged 64 years, who, I believe were the parents of Minnie Louisa.

The Durham home built by Billy for his bride was pretentious in every respect, being one of the largest and most sumptuous establishments of early day in the north. There were four fireplaces in the house and two dining rooms. There were marble washstands in several of the rooms; and for Minnie there was a bathroom with a metal built-in tub but without a toilet, as that convenience was a later innovation. Commodes in the five bedrooms upstairs held portable containers for the accommodation of family and guests and their personal needs, either for the comfort of cleanliness or elimination. Bowls and pitchers, chambers, slop-jars and towel racks constituted the necessary equipment of bedrooms of the day. Brussels carpets covered the bedroom floors, and walnut beds and dressers, chairs, tables and chests of drawers completed the furnishings upstairs.

Chinese or Indian servants did the cooking, house cleaning and transporting of jars downstairs and fresh water upstairs in the luxurious home. This service rendered life comparatively easy and free from what might have otherwise been endless drudgery in keeping such a large place in order. An upper veranda and a back stairway eliminated the necessity of servants having to carry anything of an embarrassing nature through the rooms on the lower floor. Fires in the four fireplaces had to be kept going in the winter on both floors as the ceilings of the rooms were very high, and they were very large and hard to heat. Long underwear was a necessary article of clothing for the occupants of these early day mansions which were without the comfort of furnace heat.

Minnie loved to entertain. The parties given at the Durham home were famous for their lavish cuisine and the fun and hospitality prevailing there. Usually there was music furnished by the Neubarth Brothers Orchestra of Chico, a group of young men from Germany who were as well known in the history of Butte County as the Durham ranch itself. There would be bowls of punch, pitchers of cider and lemonade. There was wine or milk and platters of fried chicken and doughnuts, salads and ice creams, sometimes served under the trees and sometimes in the house.

Life was gay in the '70's. Many visitors, friends, travelers, persons of note and relatives from Stockton. Sacramento and Marysville visited the Durham home. And any visit meant a long and tiresome ride, so guests came not for an hour or a day but for a week or more at a time. Many stalls in a roomy, heavily floored stable housed the horses of the visitors, as well as the driving stock necessary for family use. Some of these guests were distinguished persons, prominent in the affairs of California, whom Minnie entertained in a manner befitting their station and customary social life.

The parlor in the Durham home was a large room on the southeast corner of the house with a bay window on the south, extending to the roof and making an attractive alcove in the bedroom above it. There was a fireplace on the north end of the parlor with a marble mantel. When the marble became a bit smoked and stained, Billy's second wife had it taken out as she did not like it. The beautiful polished marble with its scrolls and grapes reminded her of a cemetery monument, so out it came and was replaced by an ornate walnut affair that resembled an overgrown "whatnot." Spindles and shelves enclosed a mirror and the top shelf was so high that we had to get a ladder to dust it. It was a dreadful mistake any way you looked at it, but Carrie thought that it was beautiful and all that a mantel should be.

A fine old mahogany square piano stood in one corner of the parlor and helped furnish the music for Minnie's parties. She played it well too. William was proud of it as he had imported it around the Horn, he said, and it was a "Dunham" which was one of the best. Back of the parlor was an office or study which was William's private domain. It contained his desk and safe, a couch covered with black leather, and a marble washstand. One entire wall of the room contained bookcases and cupboards. These rooms on the east side were surrounded by a broad porch which was also used for entertaining.

Across the hall from the parlor on the west side of the main part of the house was a billiard room fully equipped. It also had a fireplace and a bay window on the west extending to the roof. The billiard room and the bedroom above it, which was Minnie's, were larger than most of the reception rooms of this day. Smaller porches flanked the billiard room on the front and rear.

A walnut staircase led from the hall to the bedrooms above, and at the end of the hall downstairs was the family dining room with windows, doors and porches on both sides of it. Back of the dining room was a spacious kitchen and pantry, and another dining room for the men working on the ranch joined the kitchen on the back. A stairway led from an entry hall to a cellar where shelves of canned fruits, dried fruits, home-cured hams and bacon, nuts, pickles and preserves were stacked on shelves in great abundance. In the cellar too there were barrels of sauerkraut, pickled pork, cider, apples and groceries. It was necessary to keep many supplies, for the nearest source was then at Chico and the trip to town of seven or eight miles each way by horse or team meant an all day journey.

The Durham Home

Neubarth Brothers Band

More bedrooms were over the dining room and kitchen and a stairway led to the upstairs porches and rooms near the dining room door on the east side. A magnificent oak tree shaded the rear of the house to the east and under it, near the kitchen, stood a little milk house with double walls of sawdust and a space for garden tools. On the shelves of this cool little building rested tin pans of rich milk from Jersey cows. The cream, thick as leather, gathered to the surface and was skimmed into pitchers for family use or put into a jar to ripen for churning to butter.

The east side of the house was in lawn with a driveway turning out to the front gate, and Billy planted English walnut trees on the east for shade and orange trees on each side of the front drive. Along the fence between the home and grounds and the county road, he planted Eucalyptus trees that grew tall and willowy. In the acre or more of fenced grounds around and in back of the house he planted every sort of different fruit tree that he became interested in. There were pecan nuts and butternuts and nectarines. There were many varieties of peaches, apricots and pears, cherries, plums, apples and berries. So Minnie's table never lacked a variety of fruit.

Minnie's kindnesses were not limited to her home. It was said of her that she never saw a poor child barefooted or shabby that she did not take it to a store arid buy shoes or clothing or whatever seemed necessary. Her bills were of constant concern and a problem for William, and he was not always sympathetic about her entertainments and parties and their cost. She drove a fine mare and rode in a stylish buggy, and made the trip often to Chico to attend the gay parties or to visit with her many friends, attend dances or other social events there. Sometimes William went with her and sometimes he did not.

William was a quiet man of few words. He loved his friends and he loved to fish, to play cribbage or whist and he enjoyed the mountains in summer. With that pleasure in mind he bought a lot at Butte Meadows, then he bought a little cabin that stood by an Iron Spring there and he moved the cabin onto his lot. He rebuilt it, as it had formerly been occupied by employees of the sawmill then operating at nearby Chico Meadows. Thereafter the Durhams spent their summers at Butte Meadows, which is about 42 miles northeast of Durham in the mountains.

The fishing parties, picnics and festivities continued with whatever guests were anywhere near the Durham cabin. Big pine trees grew in the yard which was enclosed by a zigzag rail fence. A barn in back of the house sheltered a strong team of horses and a spring wagonthe customary mountain conveyance. Few lighter rigs survived the rocky, dusty road to the mountains. In the yard near the house a large circle of big rocks enclosed a fireplace where pine logs provided a bonfire nightly. Billy loved this place and the contact with friends and neighbors who gathered around the fire evenings to talk, sing and partake of refreshments.

In 1877 Minnie and Billy (the name by which he was most generally known) sailed for Honolulu in October, aboard the "City of Sidney." I find a certificate for a donation of Four Dollars made aboard that ship to Hawaiian Hospitals from W. W. Durham and Wife. On August 16, 1878, a son, Robert Wellington Durham, named for William's Uncle Robert, was born to Minnie at the home in Durham. This young man was to be my future husband and the father of my three children.

Robert was a handsome little lad and adored by his mother, who loved all children dearly. Soon after his birth Minnie became ill with an affliction called neuralgia in those days. The definition in my dictionary says that it is a very acute symptomatic pain which follows the course of a nerve branch. The acute pain in Minnie's case started in her cheek and affected her eye and the side of her face. The panacea administered by her physician was the drug, Bromedia. It seemed to be the only remedy her physician knew for the trouble, and as time passed and the affliction did not leave her but increased in intensity of pain, he administered the medicine in larger and larger doses.

Bromedia is considered rather harmless; I am told, even when taken in large doses. Paragoric and then other more potent drugs followed in Minnie's frantic effort to relieve her suffering. The result was disastrous. According to news accounts she developed brain fever after a short illness. Minnie died on February 1, 1894. She had often expressed a desire in the years before her death, that if she passed away before Father Leaman of Chico, that he was to officiate at her funeral. Probably she had some premonition of her own early end; the venerable old friend was 93 years of age and Minnie but 38 at the time of her passing. He sadly complied with her request and in earnest words gave consolation to William and their young son, Robbie. He commented earnestly "on the many benevolent acts of the deceased while in life which had endeared her in the hearts of the community." Her birthplace is given in the accounts as Indiana.

Other published accounts include the following comments:

"The funeral cortege was very large, seventyseven carriages leaving the residence for the cemetery, which showed the special favor and esteem in which Mrs. Durham was held in the county. Among those present were T. J. Flannery and family, of Marysville, brotherinlaw of Mrs. Durham, C. F. Lott and son and others from Oroville, besides a large number of friends from Chico and surrounding country."

"Following after the long procession was seen the old Indian, `Captain Jack,' on horseback, who had been the recipient of many kind acts from Mrs. Durham, and who showed great sorrow in the loss of a friend indeed." [49]

Just where the Neal Indians were living at this time, I do not know, but I was told by my mother and her friends that Minnie took care of many of the older Indians, fed them with produce from the ranch and gave them clothing and bedding when they were in need.

Minnie Louisa was placed on the knoll in the little cemetery selected by Robert. Her grave is a few feet south of his and that of his brother William, and north of the grave of her sister Mary. Mary Flannery, whose home was in Marysville, had passed away at the age of 30 years. Her death was a blow to Minnie as the two sisters had visited back and forth and had been very devoted to one another. Mary's husband had brought her body to the Durham cemetery, and thereafter Minnie visited the spot often and, with the help of her friends, the Indians who loved her, she kept the plot clean and in order.

The dry grass and weeds growing over the area in summer had worried Minnie and so she had planted green creeping myrtle on the graves there. This creeping vine with its star like blue flowers soon covered the graves on the hill and has since spread over much of the little cemetery. A short time before her death she had also planted a little palm tree in the garden of her home, and this was taken up by her husband and her son and planted at the foot of her small mound. It has grown to a towering height and droops mournfully over the grave and the monument with a cross on it that is her headstone.

The cemetery has many mounds since 1894 but it is still undisturbed by nearby habitations. When you stand on the knoll by Minnie's cross there is no sound but that of the rustle of the palm leaves and the peaceful notes of blue doves, occasionally broken by the roar of a passing car.

Young Robert was a lad of sixteen at this time attending Woodman's Academy in Chico. His mother always called him "Robbie" and being the only child in the family he was somewhat spoiled, His wishes and desires were more often than not fulfilled in short order, and he was unpopular with the Chinese and the Indians for whom he had little respect.

None of us are perfect; else we would not be on earth struggling to attain perfection. What then can I say of "Robbie" as a child or as a man? His old friends still tell of his violent temper that blazed forth against those who crossed him and most often was vented against his pets and the animals on the farm. As a small lad he killed his pony because the animal was afraid to cross the railroad tracks. Nor should he be blamed altogether for his lack of emotional control, as his father, William, was possessed of the same uncontrollable temper. [50] Probably the circumstance of Minnie's suffering and illness and her affectionate nature and indulgence resulted in little training of her only son, during the important childhood years.

Robbie adored his mother and at times could be as tender and affectionate as she was, but there was no warning as to which of his dual personalities would next assert itself. Father William was respected for his honesty and his achievements in the development of the Durham community. His ability and experience had made of him an industrious, capable manager and he was highly respected and well known throughout the north. Both of these men could be tender and kind and they could turn in the flash of an eye when crossed. They could be generous and they could be conservative; they could be sympathetic and they could be cruel; but the years had softened Father William when I knew him and he was apparently always calm, gentle and kind in his later years.

In 1880 Father Durham had been elected to the State Congress and he had introduced the first bill, while there, for the placing of a Normal School at Chico. His bill did not pass and his health was poor during those years. During his years of service at Sacramento the social life and gayety at his home in Durham was in full swing, for he invited many friends and well known men there.

*          *          *          *

The first recorded map that I find of the town of Durham was made August 2, 1875. Surveyed by Charles Cadawalader and filed November 1, 1881, it shows Market Street adjacent to the Southern Pacific tracks and running approximately north and south. The parallel streets on the west were named Goodspeed, Putney, Mansfield and Turner. Running from south to north, they are Coon Street, Boucher, Dibble, Burdick, Matheson, Brown, Faber, Campbell and Durham. There are thirty-six blocks designated on the old map.

R. M. Turner made two subdivisions in Township 21 N., R. I E., parts of Section 25. The first was south of the road running east and west over the Southern Pacific tracks and continuing towards Oroville. The second was north of it.

Among the names of those who purchased ten-acre lots on each side of Turner Avenue, we find on the one side, M. Doon (2 lots), J. K. Murphy and E. A. Epperson. On the other side, J. H. Skinner, Mrs. M. Goss, Richard Harding and Henry Morgue; and on the west and north the lands of the Pratt Grant. All of these names are still very familiar in the little settlement of Durham.

The town called for a school and the school called for a teacher. About two years before Minnie passed away the teacher who came to Durham was Miss Caroline Roesch of Stockton. As was then the custom, she "boarded out" with one of the prominent families of the district, and the most prominent family then was the Durham family, so Carrie carne to live at the Durham home. She was a queer mixture of dignified austerity, devout religious manifestation, and conservative habits, yet very apparently desiring companionship and affection. She tried to express friendship and hospitality but never seemed exactly at ease or to endear her friends with that warmth of heart so embodied in Minnie.

Her parents were Germans and her mother had married two brothers the second after the death of the first. Caroline was the only child by the first marriage and her half brother, George, and half sister, Laura, were very different in temperament. Her Mother Roesch was of the warmhearted German type, motherly and affectionate as was her daughter Laura; but she told me herself that she was never able to quite understand her own daughter Carrie.

"She comes home from school and goes up to her room like a boarder, but my girl, Laura, she gives me a big hug and kiss and asks me how I feel." This was the amazing comment of a loving mother.

Carrie was tall and blond although she was well in the autumn of life when I went to Durham to live, one could well imagine that she had been a handsome young woman. In these later years, her hair was faded and her face had rather austere lines, but she had a pleasant smile and kindly eyes. Her quiet manner and primness, compared with Minnie's affluence, evidently appealed to William. Her son, Robert, did not share his father's admiration; in fact his prejudice grew to open animosity even before the death of his mother.

Carries pedantry and insistence on discipline and respect antagonized young Robert, whose habits had grown in his youth into a personal indulgence of his own desires, regardless of consequences. He was away most of the time at school during the last years of his mother's life when Carrie was living in the home and he was not sorry for that.

In the summer of 1895 William Durham took the Flannery family to Butte Meadows for the summer. Patrick Flannery had married again after Mary's death and had brought three children into the world by his second wife, two boys and a daughter. Mrs. Flannery was a lovely person, tall, stately and kind and usually full of fun and wit. In this summer of 1895, however, she was trying to overcome the grief that had saddened the Flannery family from the death of one of her little sons. Little Marion had been burned to death when his flannel gown caught fire while he was playing with some matches. A great effort was made that summer to bring happiness to the bereaved mother by all of the friends who lived near the Durham cabin. One of these families was my own Mother, Dad and my two older brothers and myself a little girl of seven years.

There were fishing parties and picnics at the Meadows, suppers and luncheons. Frances Flannery was my playmate and Robert Durham and my eldest brother were bosom friends, but they were young men of 17 years and had little time for children. My first vivid remembrance of Robert was at a picnic when I threw a piece of watermelon rind at my brother who was teasing us. My aim was poor and it accidentally hit Robert Durham in the eye. Well do I remember hiding behind a big pine tree for what seemed hours to me to avoid seeing him for I was frightened and mortified.

That was the last summer spent with the Durhams and the Flannerys at the mountain home in eventful, social happiness. In March 1896, William married Caroline Roesch at her home in Stockton and took her to San Francisco on a honeymoon. From the Grand Hotel on March 2 1, he wrote a letter to his son, an evident appeal to Robert for friendly acceptance of his new stepmother. The old letter bears a lithographed picture of the hostelry, bulging with bay windows and topped with a tower from which a banner is flying. The building is on the corner of a street and all of three horse-drawn vehicles and one streetcar are pictured on the busy corner. A paragraph of the letter is enough:

"Robert, Carrie is very anxious to be your friend and I hope you will meet her with a friendly greeting, as I told you once before; if you treat her with the respect and consideration you would any lady that should visit our house I feel sure that all will be well and that you will soon feel that you have no cause to regret the step I have taken for you may be sure that your welfare has not been lost sight of."

The letter is signed, "Yours truly, W. W. Durham."

The letters from father to son were so signed through the years and the formality of the signatures is indicative of the relationship which existed between the two.

The letter may have softened the feelings of the stepson to some extent, but Carrie told me that a few days after her arrival he moved his belongings into a room toward the back of the house and requested her to stay out of it. The relationship never warmed between these two as the years passed. I was too young to remember much of Robert, his father or Carrie during those years, excepting from occasional visits or family conversation. Carrie seldom entertained and the atmosphere of the Durham home changed. Two women could hardly be more different in temperament and character than Minnie and Carrie. To the degree that Minnie Louisa was generous and friendly Carrie was conservative to the state of being penurious. Minnie had loved her parties and a gay life. Carrie cared not a whit for company; her family and friends complained that she had always spent her leisure hours in her room shut up alone with sewing or books, even excluding them.

Carrie Roesch was not a young woman when she came to the school at Durham, and no doubt her quiet ways and studious habits were quite a change for Father Durham who was probably bored with friends who came and went endlessly at the Durham mansion. She was pretty and dressed well and she was extremely devout in her attendance at Protestant churches and worked hard in later years at supporting the little church at Durham. Minnie attended both the Protestant and Catholic churches and loved the congregations of both. Carrie had no charity in her heart for the Catholic faith and was sure Catholics were bent on the ultimate destruction of the world outside of their own churches. She had rather a weak, nasal high pitched voice, and her world was a narrow world; she told little events in her life over and over until one grew tired of hearing her talk.

Robert left the home to attend school in Oakland. Later he served in the Spanish American War as a volunteer, but was never sent from the barracks at Benicia. Then he started a bicycle shop in Stockton with a friend but that did not prove satisfactory. He was quite adept at stunt riding; I know that he could ride his bicycle on the flat top board of an ornamental fence running from the home to the village of Durham a distance of a quarter of a mile. After he sold out the bicycle business he went to work for the Pacific Gas & Electric Company and he was stationed at various power plants in learning the production end of that business. As the years passed he seldom visited the home at Durham, which of course hurt his father.

Carrie was an immaculate housekeeper and the house was cleaned regularly once a week. It took hours to dust the ornate walnut furniture and the clutter of figurines, small marble statuettes, vases, thistledown bags, roseleaf jars, family pictures and many other such articles that she collected and treasured. Every little shelf of the many shelved mantel and every table and stand in the parlor was covered. There were crocheted "tidies" on the backs of the chairs and tufted silk pillows everywhere, and when you sat on anything you instinctively sat on the edge for fear you would muss something.

The billiard table went out and so did a number of other articles which might draw former friend son pleasure bent. Pictures of Robert Durham the first and other family portraits along with an embellished enlargement of Robbie and Minnie were moved into Father Durham's office. His former friends who dropped in for cards or billiards gradually ceased from their visits. William was known to have played a hundred games of cribbage with one of these, because of a wager and he loved to play the game. He also loved billiards and chess. As the games left, the library grew and Carrie gradually turned the interests and the habits of her husband into quieter channels. He never gave up his love for fishing however, and every summer he sought out some stream or lake where the two of them spent a quiet vacation seldom at the Butte Meadows cabin, but more often at Klamath Falls.

Carrie's interests centered in the Presbyterian or Congregational church and in the Order of Native Daughters. She held state offices in the latter organization, and her entertaining consisted of visitors from that organization or having the minister over for fried chicken for a Sunday dinner.

When he was in town, young Robert often visited my brother, and Mother and Dad kept up some semblance of their former friendship with William. They had loved Minnie, but Carrie seemed aloof and distant and did not invite familiarity. We seldom or never went to the Durham home in those days.

In 1904 Robert met with a very serious accident which greatly affected his health and his future life. He was on night shift duty at the De Sabla power plant near Nimshew in Butte County and threw a large switch into contact on the instrument panel. There was a short on the power lines, and the fuse boxes on the building that were supposed to blow out in such a circumstance shorted across instead. A white arc of flame enveloped his body, and the brass or copper metal on the switch melted and sprayed over him, covering his face and hands. His clothing was on fire, and he would have been burned to death had not one of the other employees on duty rolled him in some water on the floor of the building.

Because of past friendship and the fact that he had been paying considerable attention to me during that year, he was brought to our home in Chico. His suffering was acute and, wrapped like a mummy; he was a pitiful sight to see. Later his father took him to the Lane Hospital in San Francisco where he remained for many weeks. I visited him there once while in the City with my grandmother. Sensitive because of his scars he anticipated a lack of interest on my part in ourplans for marriage. My own sense of loyalty together with pity came to the fore because I felt very sorry indeed for this friend who had met with such a terrible accident.

Probably I was more in love with love during those early years than with Robert Durham. He was ten years older and of course it was flattering to be courted by an older person, but .my deepest interest centered in a schoolmate, whose memory I treasured for many years. However family influence and that something that guides our decisions led to an announcement of the engagement of Edna Reynolds and Robert Durham. The Durham family was well to do and well known and it seemed that I would be well cared for as to position and wealth.

How many times in after years have I remembered the day when Father Durham came to see Mother and me regarding my engagement to his son. He admired my mother and he hoped that I would be like her, but he told her in my presence that he very much hoped she would discourage me from marriage to Robert. "You will never be happy with Robert," he said. "He will not take care of you as you have been cared for; I beg you not to marry him."

I was shocked beyond words, but I finally replied that perhaps Bob had not had the right opportunity and that I would do my best to help him make good. The breach had so widened between father and son by Robert's treatment of his stepmother, that I felt Father Durham was being very unfair and was prejudiced because of the adverse influence Carrie had on him. I have thought many times how it must have grieved him to give such advice.

After his recovery "my Bob" returned to the employ of the Pacific Gas F3 Electric Company on various construction jobs around the Bay of San Francisco. During the winter of 1905 and 1906 he left that company and the hazardous work he was doing and came back to Chico to operate the power plant that ran the street car system that was first installed in Chico. The tracks ran from Main Street down Second Street in front of our home and turned down Chestnut Street to the Diamond Match Plant. That spring Father Durham contracted the sale of the Durham ranch to one Lucius Nelson, living in Durham. His announcement of the fact was a blow to us all. He told us that Carrie wanted him to go to Stockton to live; she had never felt happy living at Durham and anyway, he did not think that his son cared for the ranch or was interested in the business of farming.

"What a pity that the old Durham ranch should not continue to be the home of the Durham family," commented many friends, or, "Carrie has talked Billy into this deal to deprive Robert of his inheritance."

Robert talked to his father at great length, and promised that when we were married we would come to live on the ranch and help him with it provided he could get a release of the contract of sale. Father Durham began to regret having signed the document and worried a great deal about it, as Mr. Nelson refused to return it. A closer understanding developed between Robert and his father than had existed for many years.

The contract stood, and the rich, beautiful farming land of 425 acres or more, the mansion, stock and equipment were to go for the agreed price of Fifty Thousand Dollars. Then one morning in April there came a great disaster to Northern California. Well I remember that morning as I had risen early in anticipation of a short trip. Standing in front of my dresser, I first had a sensation of dizziness, then the mirror in front of me swayed and the cry of "Earthquake!" came from my Mother's room. Little did we know that morning of the serious consequences to the beloved City of San Francisco.

In a few days the banks in the north closed or suspended business involving any major transaction. Lucius Nelson was unable to raise the money for the Durham ranch and his time expired on the contract. Father Durham was a happy man, relieved in his mind and in anticipation of the future.

On September 5, that same year of 1906, we were married at the home of my parents in Chico, I was eighteen and Robert was twenty-eight, and this difference in our years gave me a definite inferiority complex. My family bad lived on a farm west of Chico until I was about twelve years old. At that time we lived in a home Father bought us in the town of Chico; so country living would not be a novelty to me and Mother was overjoyed at the prospect of the home I would move into and the prominence accorded the Durham family.

Our own home, both on the farm and later in Chico, was very dear to all of our own family and was a gathering place for friends and students of the nearby State Normal School. I had two older brothers no sisters and usually associated with their friends, older than 1. Our home life was as ideal as a family life could be; no quarreling or faultfinding, name-calling or unkind remarks marred the atmosphere of love and understanding. I was sensitive to a degree that made my married life more and more of a problem for me, as I had no idea how to meet some of the trying conditions confronting me. It seems to me that most of the first year of our marriage I spent in tears I cried day and night, hurt in mind, body and soul.

After a honeymoon we went to live on the ranch and to help Father Durham. He was very kind to me and I loved him very much. For a wedding present he gave me a beautiful Coawood four poster bed that be had purchased in the Philippines when he and Carrie had been there. She was upset about the gift and demanded that he get the bed back so Father Durham gave me a check for $100.00, and I was happy to get him out of his difficulty. He made her send the bed to Stockton as he said that be never wanted to see it again, and actually he never did. [51]

That winter be suddenly became very ill with pneumonia. He had a fear of this dread illness that had taken the lives of so many of his day. Father Durham tried to say something to me before be passed into unconsciousness, but he was so weak that his words were lost to me. We sat by his bed through hours of rattling, labored breathing which grew fainter and shorter until a final sigh and short spasm ended his life on January 28, 1907.

In his will William Durham stated that his body was to be disposed of according to the wishes of his wife. Carrie did not wish to place it beside Minnie's grave in the Durham Cemetery where, I might say, it rightly belonged. She shipped the casket to Stockton for burial in the plot of her own family. Robert was left the home and the land on the east side of the Southern Pacific right-of-way a beautiful farm of about 250 acres. Carrie was given various bequests of cash, stocks and the land on the west side of the tracks a grant of approximately 180 acres, some of which was newly planted in a young almond orchard.

We moved into the large house which together with the contents had been left to us. Carrie remained with us for about a year occupying the west bedroom that had been Minnie's and which she kept securely locked at all times. She considered that her board should be provided from the ranch during the year that the estate was in probate.

About that time I found that I was to become a mother, and along with the consequential nausea and homesickness came the problem of trying to keep peace and harmony and some semblance of a happy normal life in an atmosphere of tension between my husband and his stepmother. During that year too I received an education in home economics and conservation, hard to understand at the time, but which probably stood me in good stead through later years of varied experiences.

Carrie had the money we had none; and it was necessary to borrow from the bank until crops brought in an income. We had two men to board for farm work. Considerable stock was left to us to care for, a beautiful herd of fine Jersey cows, a band of sheep and a few hogs. Carrie said that the chickens and their eggs belonged to her and before long she gathered her chicks together and sold them all.

Farm life was not new to me and I loved the home and the beautiful ranch at Durham. On the east of it were orchards and the gardens, irrigated by the ditch that the Indians had dug to bring water from Butte Creek for Samuel Neal, On the west were the grain fields in which grew magnificent Valley Oaks, and there was a small oak grove n the center of the ranch where young trees grew thick. The drive-way from the road into the ranch was bordered with huge old Black Walnut trees; Father Durham had grafted English Walnut tops on Black Walnut trunks and these beautiful trees hung over the many Buildings, along the fences and in the home grounds.

It was always a joy, soothing to an aching heart and troubled spirit, to walk over the fields, in the grove, or over to Butte Creek whenever the opportunity came, for life at home was not easy. I earned to make butter and to mold it and take it to the store to apply on our grocery bills, to carry heavy baskets of vegetables from the Chinese gardens three times a week for our home use. I learned to at more rice, beans or potatoes and to cook substantial meals for the men and a lighter diet for Carrie and myself. I learned to count the cost of meals per person in pennies, to make jellies and to can fruit, and to help with the pickling and smoking of pork. There was a smoke house built especially for that purpose. I learned to pick turkeys with my eyes shut so that I could not see the blood dripping from their cut throats and open beaks or the look in their eyes as feathers were pulled from live flesh. There were eggs to gather and to wash each day, and I learned to set hens and to raise baby chicks.

Electric lines had not been completed to the ranch when we moved to the home. Later we had lights put in but we never did have an electric stove while I lived there. Every morning a dozen lamps had to be filled and a dozen chimneys washed and polished; wood and kindling had to be carried in to the kitchen and fireplaces. I learned to wash dishes and clothes with a minimum allotment of soap, to throw nothing in a garbage can that could be used in salads or hash and to buy nothing for myself or the home. After a few timid requests I soon learned not to ask for any money. My Mother provided materials and clothing for the baby to come and I spent all of the time available in making and embroidering little garments. Sometimes Carrie sat with me and helped. Never did I have any trouble with Carrie; we were always kind to each other.

Together we cleaned the house, swept the heavy carpets and dusted the multitude of objects on every shelf and piece of furniture that would hold anything. We polished the furniture and banisters, scrubbed floors, watered plants and yard, did huge washings and accomplished the work on an hourly and daily schedule. The routine was timed as religiously as the opening and closing of school had been timed in Carrie's younger days.

There was a washhouse back of the home where we spent most of every Monday. There were no stationary tubs in it, such as had been in our Chico home only a faucet running cold water. There was a wood stove and two large wash boilers stood on it; there were numerous galvanized iron tubs on benches for rinsing and bluing. We washed all of the sheets, bedspreads and blankets, the house linen for the family and their clothing. Carrie left for the summer months and the washing and cooking responsibility fell on me. As I grew in size and discomfort the hard work depressed me greatly and big buckets of water that had to be lifted to boilers and tubs seemed to grow heavier and heavier.

There was little difference in the work on any farm in those days and that of our own. There had been few conveniences on my father's farm and our neighbors were no better off accepting that some had Chinese to help. It was the hardest year for me and one requiring many adjustments. We bad the problem of mosquitoes from the Chinese gardens and also of fleas. The dust around the barns and corrals became infested with fleas and they got into the carpets of the house. It was necessary to shake them from our clothing several times a day. Sleep was difficult; nerves were strained from the buzzing and biting of insects, coupled with the attacks of numerous crawling fleas. The memory of that summer was like a nightmare.

On the morning of the first day of October, 1907, I suffered my first attack of malaria with a hard chill, and later in the afternoon gave birth to a 9 1/2 pound son, William W. Durham, the second. From that time on the attacks were frequent; a chill followed by burning fever, and every bone seemed to ache separately and distinctly. Only those who have suffered every other day with these cursed attacks can appreciate the damage they do to a person's courage and happiness.

We had a woman or a girl then to help with the work and to cook for the men so the housework became easier for me. Those of us who kept house during the early part of the century deeply appreciate our electric stoves, irons, washing machines, lights, heaters and many other blessings of this later day, a day of switches.

Carrie loved the baby and helped me with him until she left the ranch early in the spring of 1909 at Robert's request. She took a carload of things with her, a horse and buggy, a bedroom set that she requested, one of the carpets, most of the bric-a-brac, the thistledown bags, pillows and rose jars, dishes, linens and books. Many of these things she asked for and we gave them to her. So ended the regime of Caroline.

The bedroom that had been Minnie's and Caroline's became mine, along with the responsibility of the housekeeping. I have tried to picture life in the home at Durham as it was also in other ranch homes of the day those days of the early years of the century when there were no motion picture shows and few automobiles, no electric vacuum cleaners or other appliances to lighten housework or cooking.

The years passed and, as on other farms, some brought good crops and some bad. Not many were as hard for me as the first had been or as full of problems. In February 1911, another son was born to the home of my parents in Chico. I named him for his father and uncle, Robert W. Durham, the third. The two little boys were a great comfort to me. Because of the malaria I took there to the Butte Meadows cabin during the summers; there were always mosquitoes at the ranch in summer but we never again had fleas. Sometimes my husband went to the mountains with us for a few days, but usually he remained at the ranch. Mother and Father Reynolds spent their vacation at the old Butte Meadows Hotel since destroyed by fire and those were indeed happy days. We fished and played games with the children and spent our evenings around a campfire with friends and neighbors.

During the first few years on the ranch Robert seemed to make some progress with it, but as the seasons passed it became very evident that his heart was not in the business of farming. He sold most of the horses and bought an expensive tractor which he enjoyed running for a time, but the fields were never plowed or sown in time. Our neighbor's fields would be lush and green before ours were planted, and our grain grew scant and thin in fields on which rain had long since ceased to fall. Orchards were not pruned or sprayed or fertilized, sometimes not even cultivated. The income from the ranch grew less and the indebtedness at the bank grew more.

One year we had a warm spring rain on heavy snow in the hills and Butte Creek could not carry the flood of water. The levees broke and the ranch was covered with water: only our house on its knoll stood above it. The sheep were huddled into the barn and many of the ewes would not nurse their wet lambs. That winter I raised about a dozen orphaned lambs on a bottle, and during the flood kept them in the laundry house.

We had another sad experience too when our fruit house burned with the year's crop of dried fruit stored in it, along with trays and boxes. A week later the tank house burned too and our water supply was temporarily gone. Both of the fires were set by a fanatical employee with whom Robert had had trouble and neither building was covered with insurance. The man boasted of his achievement and his desire to get even with Bob Durham.

In time Robert bought an automobile and built a garage for it. Thereafter he spent much time driving to Chico or Durham, the hills or elsewhere. He bought a camera and took hundreds of pictures, and he loved to read magazines in the office that had belonged to his father. The boys annoyed him and he shut his doors to us, preferring to be alone. We had a young Chinese boy, Joe, to do the cooking and he loved the boys; many times he took them under his protection when they were in trouble with their father.

In April 1918, a daughter was born to us in the hospital in Oakland where I had previously gone for surgery. It was almost a month later before her father saw her, and it was the first of September before I was well enough to return to Durham, and then on crutches. During that summer the boys, the baby and I stayed in Santa Cruz with my parents. Elizabeth Ruth, or Betty, was her father's favorite. Even before she was born I went back to work in my father's office and I had become very greatly worried over the health and mental attitude of my husband. It had become necessary for me to go to work in order to provide clothing and necessities for the family.

Our bills were unpaid, worse still they were discarded unopened and the senders loudly cursed for bothering us about them. It became increasingly evident that Robert was not a normal person, physically or mentally. Whether his unbalance was due to the nervous shock of the electric burn or from other physical causes or both, I could not say; but his utter lack of responsibility for his family or farm, and his lack of honor shocked and worried us all. Our family physician informed me that he was not a normal person.

There is little else that I wish to say of the father of my children, the last owner of the old Durham ranch in that family. His inhumanities are best not written of, and probably he is deserving of pity as he might have been helped physically with proper treatment. Many helpless animals paid with their lives for some innocent endeavor to get the feed on the other side of the fence. His fits of melancholia and temper seemed aggravated by farm work, and he often expressed the desire to return to electrical construction. At times he could be happy, kind and generous with those who came to our home, but as soon as they left his moodiness would return, so our true home life was unknown to our friends.

Needless to say, as the years passed I lost my respect for Robert Durham and love with it. I stayed on hoping that for the sake of the children a home fit for them to live in might be maintained. The big house at Durham ceased to be a home. The rooms that I had loved and hoped to restore to the atmosphere of hospitality and happiness that had filled them in the days of Minnie's loving kindnesses seemed cold and hollow. My husband did not like parties or social gatherings: he spent most of his time away from home, usually ate after we were finished and we ceased to care. No amount of excuses or explanation to my sons changed the lack of love and regard they had for their father and this was hard to bear. They knew only an intense fear and dread of his approach because of the frame of mind he might or might not be in.

As soon as my health permitted I returned to work and commuted from Durham to Chico, taking the boys and little Betty with me. The boys attended school and Betty stayed with my mother. Joe left us as there was no money to pay him, and the boys helped me early and late to keep ahead of the work. In the fall of 1921 Robert seemed on the verge of a nervous collapse. He clung to me and cried like a child with an affection he had not shown for years, and said that he wanted to get away from everything. We talked over our situation, and he expressed a desire to return to work for the Pacific Gas and Electric Company.

We rented an inexpensive house in Chico and put a .man on the ranch to run it; with his help and ours we hoped to work out our problem of indebtedness. Many accounts then stood against the ranch and very few were personal. The effort to better things was short lived. The electric company complained that Robert had become incompetent, that he would leave his work giving no reason or accounting and return after two or three hours without explanation. They gave him work because of his injury. While in their service, and they were most patient and kind. I worked in Father's office on salary and made considerable side money singing as a paid soloist at churches and funerals and other various engagements.

On our last memorable evening together as a family unit, little Bob, Jr., incurred his father's displeasure and he was severely punished. After dinner the boys left home and vowed they would not return. On the following morning Robert Senior came downstairs and announced that he was also leaving, that he did not care to be led to a family any longer. He said that he should never have married or had children, which was probably very true. He had little affection and less sense of responsibility for us and I had known for I long time that his pleasure was in visiting other friends. Thus ended, after sixteen years, my life as the wife of Robert Durham. My husand packed his things and without further comment left for a transfer to a mountain powerhouse. Later his employment was terminiated and he returned to the ranch.

In a settlement the children received sixty acres of the land next to the Southern pacific right-of-way, which was mortgaged for 60 per cent of its value before it was turned over to them; I asked for nothing. Robert retained the home where he lived alone for a time in a mental state that was difficult to reason with. He was bitter at everyone apparently and full of self-pity. As the inevitable came about and the bank notified him that he would have to give up the ranch because of lack of payments on either interest or principal, his unbalanced reasoning became more apparent. He tore the enlarged pictures of his mother and father and other relatives from the walls and burned them together with the heavy gilt frames. He dared anyone to come and take the home and carried a gun for several days to enforce his threat:

As time passed and a calmer realization of his loss brought only sorrow and the necessity of a change to be planned and arranged, Robert sold what he could salvage from the farm and purchased a lot in the mountains about 25 miles from the old home and near the town of Paradise. There was a small house on the pine-covered knoll, crudely finished and having three small rooms in it. There he took the lovely old walnut furniture that had been his mother's and piled it high in one of the rooms, together with books, clothing and equipment.

In another of the small rooms he stored his lathe and tools, and he used that space for a workshop. He slept on a small cot in the remaining room which bad little other furniture besides a desk and a couple of chairs. A short distance back of the house was a garage or shop with only a dirt floor in it, and there Robert prepared his meals and bathed in a small tub, heating the water on a stove. The place afforded neither comfort nor company; there he spent his remaining years and we wonder with what measure of happiness he enjoyed this life of his own choosing.

As far as I know he remained unemployed and bought necessary food and clothing from a small pension allowed him for his enlistment during the Spanish American War. Dust covered the fine furniture in the room where it was stored and sifted into the living quarters. Spiders unmolested spun their webs promiscuously over any unused equipment everywhere. He got up when he chose and went to bed when there was nothing to stay up for; he turned out small gifts and tools on his lathe for his friends and sometimes mended skates or bicycles for the children in the neighborhood. He visited friends and neighbors when the spirit moved him to do so and enjoyed the freedom from consideration of time or obligation.

Around the shop were piles of salvage from the ranch at Durham for he left nothing there for those who succeeded him in ownership, that could be moved. The walnut mantel from the living room came down from the wall, the heavy wooden spindles and porch railing, tools, iron, grindstones, the old train bell that had hung in the oak tree near the kitchen to call men and family to meals, with a myriad of other articles were piled under the trees. And the greatest treasure of all, the hand made tools of Samuel Neal, which had come to California in 1843 with the Fremont Expedition, were in an old chest in the garage where he ate.

In May 1941, we were told that a neighbor had found Robert lying on the ground under the pines near his shop, and that he was unconscious. He had lain there in a drizzling rain for an unknown length of time, alone as he had lived, He had suffered a stroke from a deep cerebral hemorrhage and he never regained consciousness. As we sat by his side in a hospital awaiting his final hour, a great compassion filled my heart for this man who never opened his heart to the joy and satisfaction of home and family life. He never knew the love of God that is expressed in the affectionate embrace of little children and little grandchildren; he missed so much of the blessing and inspiration of mutual love and confidence, He never knew the warmth of the love that might have surrounded him through his life, even as he never knew that those who bad cared for him most, surrounded him during his final hours. He passed away on May 17, 1941.

*          *          *          *

I pass by the old home often and wish that it were possible to purchase it for those children and grandchildren who bear the Durham name. How I would love to restore it to its former loveliness for use as a library or community center. The outside walls that once gleamed spotlessly white in the sun are gray and the house seems to hide behind the trees and shrubbery growing thick around it, mercifully hiding most of it from the view of those who pass by.

Most of the buildings I knew have been torn down: the tall red granary that stood near the entrance gate, the low broad shed for machinery that was also painted red with a white trim, are now missing. The tall smoke house, the scale house, numerous chicken coops, the little family orchard, the tall tank house with the quarters for the men, destroyed by fire long ago, complete a picture that remains only in my mind. Beautiful orchards of almonds cover the lands once planted to grain and most of the stately oaks that stretched out their heavy limbs parallel to the earth as if to pit their strength against the power of gravity are no more.

There are homes on the land which was once given to my children the land we could not afford to keep; and we hope they are happy homes for the land is good and the surroundings beautiful. The road from the little town of Durham to the old home is shaded by many trees as it used to be, and I always seem to be going home over it until I come to a gate that is now closed. Tall stately eucalyptus trees that once waved their plume like foliage in the wind over the entrance are not there to welcome me. The children used to gather their fallen branches to start our fires and little Robert called them "eupilyctus leaves."

I can still remember their pungent fragrance through the old home, and can still hear the crack of walnuts falling on road and roof in the autumn. I can hear the crowing of roosters and the bleat of sheep on quiet summer afternoons. Often in my dreams I am in the old home again, thinking how Billy built it for Minnie, caring for the treasures that were dear to them, hearing my children playing on the porches or the big swing under the oak. But then I awake to remember that it is indeed but a dream for the Ranch of the Durhams, even as Rancho Esquon is no more. But for me there is the love of younger Billy Durhams and Robert Durhams to bless the coming winter of life.

[1] Wells, History of Butte County, 1882, page 129

In 1845 Wm. Dickey, Sanders and Yates located on the Dickey Grant later part of the property of Hon. John Bidwell (Butte Co.). According to Bancroft's Works, Vol. 21, Yates claimed to have met Sam Neal in California previously in 1842.

[2] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 189

[3] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 188

[4] As Sam told the story to my Grandmother, Mrs. A. M. Barnard

[7] Copy of Fremont map of the route followed in this Second Expedition, from The Dalles to California, is in the map department of the California Section of the State Library, Sacramento, California.

[8] The famous little howitzer may now be seen in the museum at Carson City, Nevada

[10] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 353

Also Senate Documents of 28th Congress

[11] Day, Mrs. F. H., The Hesperian, Vol. II, page 343

[12] The Chico‑Oroville Highway passes through this eastern and northern part of the original rancho.

[13] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 353

Fremont records Sam's wages of two and a half dollars per day were increased by Sutter to five dollars per day.

[14] A Memorial and Biographical History of Northern California, page 471

David Dutton left St. Louis in 1839 with a party of employees of the American Fur Company en route to Oregon. Peter Lassen was also a member of the party. Eventually he and Lassen arrived at Astoria and took passage on a mission ship sailing for the Sandwich Islands. Peter Lassen disembarked at Bodega but Dutton continued on to Honolulu; he returned to erect a mill at Bodega in 1845. He next spent two years working for John Sutter at New Helvetia; his payment was two hundred heifers and one hundred fifty wild mares, With this start he moved to Rancho Esquon where he remained for six years; he had a hundred Indians engaged in raising wheat and also in mining. He sold out in 1854.

[15] Told to me by my Grandmother, Mrs. A. M. Barnard.

[16] My Grandmother and I spent much time going over the locations of the Neal settlement when she was my guest at the Durham home.

[17] Told to me by W. W. Durham and my Grandmother, Mrs. A. M. Barnard.

[18] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 472

His route was apparently up Pitt River and through the lava beds. He records "camping on McCrady Creek, which runs into Lake Rhett."

[19] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, page 472

His route was apparently up Pitt River and through the lava beds. He records "camping on McCrady Creek, which runs into Lake Rhett."

[20] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, 487

[25] Fremont, J. C., Memoirs of My Life, pages 518‑519

Samuel Neal also carried messages from Commander John B. Montgomery and Lieutenant Hunter to Fremont.

[26] Wells, History of Northern California, page 44

[27] Personal interview of author with General and Mrs. John Bidwell.

[28] Information from my Grandmother, Mrs. A. M. Barnard, W. W. Durham and Ed Branns.

[29] Stuart, Forty Years on the Frontier, pages 55‑56

[30] Stuart, Forty Years on the Frontier, pages 55‑56

[32] My maternal Grandmother, Mrs. Allyn Mather Barnard (Sarah McIntosh)

[33] Day, Mrs. F. H., The Hesperian, Vol. II, page 342, Story of Samuel Neal in "The Old Pioneers;" from Sacramento Union.

[34] A monument on the west side of Feather River marks the location of Hamilton and a well fenced cemetery quite full of interesting markers.

[35] Article in Alta California. includes biographical sketch copied from the Oroville Record.

[37] William Wellington Durham was my Father‑in‑Law

[38] Mrs. Charles Goodspeed, old resident of Durham, who lived near the Durham home, authoress of article on Sam Neal, published in book, "Here Is My Land."

[39] Edward Branns‑lifelong and present resident of Durham, California

[40] Mansfield, George C., History of Butte County, page 265

[41] Mansfield, George C., History of Butte County, pages 617‑18

[43] In 1903 or 1904, I spent some time at the old Hupp Ranch boarding house. The mill was then in operation and oxen were used to haul the logs. The mill was near the Hupp residence‑both were a short distance above the P. G. & E. reservoir above Magalia.

[44] Information from Ruby Ravekes of Durham, daughter of William Taylor

[45] Information from Mrs. Charles Schab of Durham (daughter of J. F. Holland)

[47] Information from Ed Branns of Durham, son of Joe Branus

[48] Information from Mrs. Charles Schab of Durham (daughter of J. F. Holland)

[49] From old paper clippings in file of Durham papers.

[50] Information on childhood of Robert Durham the second, obtained from my mother, Frances Barnard Reynolds of Chico and Ruby Ravekes of Durham.

[51] Over forty years later I purchased this bed back from the Laura Roesch estate for my grand‑daughter giving in payment exactly $100.00.

ACCOUNT OF CHARLES K. BESSILEU
Commenced services as cook at the rate of $150 per month Nov. 10. 1850
Dec. 16	pair boots	$5.00
17	2 Col'd shirts	6.00
25	2 plugs tobacco	4.00
27	1 Bott Porter	1.50
1851
Jan. 3	1 pr Velveteen pants	6.00
	1 pr Cassimere pants	12.00
	1 Bott Porter	1.58
	1 Bott Oysters	1.00
	3 Botts Whiskey	6.00

ACCOUNT OF MANUEL ANTONIO
1852
Jan. 22	1 pair pantaloons	6.00
	1 colored shirt	3.00
Mar. 12	1 slk pocket hdkf	2.00
	1 pair drawers	3.00
15	2 calico shirts	6.00
18	1 slk hdkf	2.00
	1 pr pantaloons	7.00
	1 blue flannel shirt	3.00
	liquors	2.50
Apr. 17	1 bott brandy	2.00
	1 pr pantaloons	6.00
	1 calico shirt	2.50
	1 slk handkerchief	3.00
	(vamoused to parts unknown)

TAME CATTLE ACCOUNT
1851
Jan 1	6 cattle to butcher	600.00
	1 ox Doc Davis	170.00
	1 ox butcher	140.00
21	1 ox F Holt & Co	150.00
24	2 ox to butcher	280.00
	1 ox disputed	165.00
26	1 ox to butcher	135.00
	Same	160.00
	Same	155.00
	Same	155.00
	same	210.00

CATTLE SOLD TO C WHEELE
1852
July 8	one beefe	40.00
8	one beefe	45.00
July 13	one sheep	12.00
July 15	one beefe	40.00
	one sheep	12.00

CALIFORNIA PIONEER

AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE DURHAM FAMILY

BY EDNA REYNOLDS DURHAM

IN EXPLANATION

REFERENCES

Tombstone of Samuel Neal

After Removal of the Spreading Oak

First Page of Original will of Samuel Neal

Appointment of Samuel Neal’’s Executors

Rancho Esquon, Map No. 1

Rancho Esquon, Map No. 2

SAMUEL NEAL

"UPPER SACRAMENTO"

THE LAST WILL AND TESTAMENT OF SAMUEL NEAL

William W. Durham

CHAPTER I

Good by I am as ever your

Affectionate Mother

Lexington, Illinois

DIED OCTOBER 22ND, 1871 AGE 52 YEARS

The Durham Home

Township 21 N R.1E and R.2., Sections 24 and 30:	83 & 69/100 acres
Tract No. 2 south of No. 1, extended into Sections 2530:	183 & 65/100 acres
Tract No. 3 south of No. 2, lay in Sections 2530:	162 & 13/100 acres
Tract No. 4 south of No. 3, lay in Section 30:	8 & 38/100 acres
	437 & 85/100 acres

Real Estate, sold	$65,900.00
Personal Property, sold	8,564.12
Debts Collected	17,024.43
Rents from Real Estate	2,283.86
Real Estate devised to W. W. Durham	13,230.00
Gold Watch	100.00
	$107,102.41
The disbursements were:
For claims allowed and approved	$ 2,986.90
Specific legacies	5,000.00
Expenses of Administration	5,430.62
Home farm to William W. Durham	13,230.00
Watch to Wortzbarger	100.00
Commission of Executors	4,404.08
(Jno. P. Leonard $20, County Clerk 15.15, Accruing costs to be paid)	35.15
	$ 31,186.75